Recent content by DAZB

You will be fine without a lintel in this case as the wallplate will handle the span but if you want to be sure then screw a 4 X 2 on top of the wallplate between the rafters to double it up over the door.

The edge of the eaves tile should be central under the first course so the lap is 50/50 aand the lap that you have is way off where it should be but, that said, you should also have roofing membrane and an eaves protector or felt support tray to give it it's posh name which should carry into the...

I would install a perforated land drain like this... https://skyplastics.co.uk/60mm%20perforated%20land%20drain%20x%2025m%20coil.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgJyyBhCGARIsAK8LVLNaLAJJuuNvlxfviicSoxT3XTk7q1OSCd7uWstqc7XIN130WC3ajckaAr0XEALw_wcB Other sizes are available but a 60mm would work...

It could be the type that slide onto a plate mounted to the pan so you could try carefully and evenly trying to slide both hinges at once towards you to see if it moves on a baseplate or the fixings most likely go through the bottom of the hinge mechanism and have a nut on the underside so have...

It's called glazing beading and if you take a photo to a window firm or even spot a window fitter in your area and ask them for advice they should be able to help you identify it.

On the underside of the wooden support block is a small screw holding the pole, you can just see the small black dot in the photo, so undo that and the pole will come off the supports and you can then thread the hoops of the curtain through and drop it back in place.

There is a small area in the corner of the flashing and gutterback junction which looks like a potential problem as it looks like a hole where water could get into. It may well be flashed behind that but it does seem to be in the area above the internal problem. Before you go removing it all get...

There to support the roof due to the low pitch and, no doubt, quite a few tons of concrete tiles. The beam will be picked up and supported by the inner skin of blockwork and the outer rafters extend to form the overhanging roof ladder and soffit.

You don't mention if you have any airbricks but with any tanking work the key to it all working properly is ventilation and so you would built in several airbricks on that wall to the outside and then once tanking, studwork, insulation and plasterboards are fitted you have a well ventilated void...

If you can turn off the mains and move it then do it that way as you run the risk of unseating the whole thing if you try forcing it across. It will be easy enough to do and give a neater finish.

What kind of fence has your neighbour built as lap panels or other fence styles set between concrete posts can be lifted upwards and if your neighbour is the reasonable sort he/she may assist. A photo or two would help people give clearer advice.

Good luck...., but seriously, can you not suspend the tv from above on a pole or similar bracket system ? Something like this and there are many options on the web...

Without seeing it this is just a suggestion but you could cut it off lower down and use a Durgo valve which lets it vent but stops odours escaping. Cutting the cast iron is the difficult bit but you could possibly take it down to the next joint and fit the Durgo into that. A photo would help you...

I bought a pack of 50 for £20 on ebay, all the same size but it is generally the size i use most of and have been doing a lot of work that needed them with customers jobs, my own rentals and also my own house renovation and i am about half way through the pack now after buying them in November...

For occasional use i would say just go on ebay and buy the 50 for 20 quid set or even 20 for 7 quid odd. If you are only cutting timber they would do you a couple of years with occasional use and B & Q, Screwfix, Toolstation etc are all overpriced on these items.