diy wired alarm...is there an obvious choice?

[EightyTwo]

Add a monkey (£500) for labour?... Depends on how hard the cable runs are - that 360 in the hall could be a pain!

Most domestic D/Ts and PIRs will cover 40' range so your hall doesn't seem so big now. Compared with an open-plan office, it's quite small!

 

[virgilns]

Add a monkey (£500) for labour?... Depends on how hard the cable runs are - that 360 in the hall could be a pain!

Most domestic D/Ts and PIRs will cover 40' range so your hall doesn't seem so big now. Compared with an open-plan office, it's quite small!

Thanks for that why such a pain?? It 's supposed to cover a 7m radius, so wound down slightly I figured it'd be ok for 5.3m??? I HOPE!!

What do you envisage will happen? over spill of 'sight' out the door/window or confused signalling as it's bouncing off walls??

Can replace with a std AMDT+ but there wasn't an obvious place to site one...

 

[Northbeach]

A fellow texecom premier DIY installer

Glad you're getting to grips with it - almost the same set up as me (part of me wishes I'd gone for the metal casing but ho hum), as you'll know from my thread. Will add IP com/GSM stuff at a later date
Will look back for updates with interest - post any pics if you can too.

Cheers.

 

[virgilns]

Thought about posting some pics up then wondered if it was wise to publicise my whole alarm insall on an open web forum

Will have think...

 

[Northbeach]

...good point!...

 

[pcaouolte]

why such a pain??

I think that EightyTwo meant it could be a pain getting a cable to it. Its often harder getting a cable to the middle of a downstairs ceiling for a 360 than the corner of a room for a PIR.

 

[virgilns]

why such a pain??

I think that EightyTwo meant it could be a pain getting a cable to it. Its often harder getting a cable to the middle of a downstairs ceiling for a 360 than the corner of a room for a PIR.

That's a result then...it's the easiest cable I ran! The panel is in a stud wall upstairs and the 360 sensor is about 3ft from the bottom of the trunking all the ground floor cables emerge from. the floors are all up, so hall sensor is the easiest to get too! Double result as it was the first cable I ran and I cut it too short so have to replace it tonight (if my new real of cable has arrived for me)...

 

[EightyTwo]

Pcaouolte was right! I didn't know that you had the floors up!!

Sounds like the first fix (getting the cables in) will be a breeze. Don't forget to label the panel end of your cables so that you know where they go. Use a thin marker like a CD/DVD marker on the cable or on white insulating tape 'flags'. If you write on the cable, do it about 10cm after the cable comes into the panel. That way, when you strip the end, you won't strip off your label!

 

[virgilns]

SO a couple of pics....

Panel mounted in the wall...hope proximity to CU is not going to be an issue...a lot of work to move it now!!

wiring with labels on cables

panel

That's the instal so far...won't bother with pics of sensors (they all look the same!

one question though...i have a pyronix sounder (http://www.cts-direct.net/intruder-alarms/internal-sounders-1/pyronix-twin-alert-internal-speaker-sounder-twinalert-pyronix) and it says wire in parallel with the external sounder, but do I wire BA to the external bell and the SPK to the separate SPK on the panel?

here's the instructions for the texecom bell and he pyronix sounder/speaker...

here' the corner of the panel where the external speaker goes...

The texecom external sounder instructions list:

+ve =A
-ve bell = B
-ve tamper = C
0v = D
-ve strobe = S

now the instructions say wire the internal sounder +12v, -12v and BA in parallel with the external bell, BUT:

it also says:
12v+ to Texecom A
12v- to Texecom D
BA to Texecom B
SPK to L/S-

I don't have an L/S-

Help!!

 

[Northbeach]

Good job virgilns. Like the neat conduit for the CU.
That metal premier 24 is so much bigger than the plastic/poly panel...slightly kicking myself for not getting that version.

I've got that same pryonix sounder on order so I'll have a look how I'm going to wire in when it arrives. I'm sure one of the experts on here can advise.

 

[virgilns]

Good job virgilns. Like the neat conduit for the CU.
That metal premier 24 is so much bigger than the plastic/poly panel...slightly kicking myself for not getting that version.

Thanks, my spark (who's signed it off) liked it too ...the middle one at the bottom isn't conduit, it's 16mm armoured cable from the main dist board down stairs...a bit of a bugger to get round corners, that one!!

I've gone metal for all my boards...makes install much easier . The only gripe with the 24 metal is that it still does not have enough enty holes top and bottom for all the cable runs in conduit. Bringing them in the back holes means later changes once fitted are going to be harder...the extra space IS nice though

I've got that same pryonix sounder on order so I'll have a look how I'm going to wire in when it arrives. I'm sure one of the experts on here can advise.

Cheers, had my external sounder all wired in and was happy to follow the pyronix instructions then i had a brain wobble and it suddenyl made no sense...maybe I was just tired - will have another proper read tonight if our friendly experts here haven't put me out of my misery by then.

Owe you a beer or two for starting your thread (and asking all the questions i would have) in perfect time!!

 

[pcaouolte]

Looking good. One of the neatest DIY installs I've seen.

CU shouldn't affect the panel, the panel is in an earthed metal box.

What are you going to cover the stud work with that will still allow you to lift the front panel off?

I don't really like the mains cable coming in at the bottom of the panel and running so close to the alarm cables but I don't expect it to cause you a problem. Similarly with the telephone cable running near the alarm cables and sharing an conduit.

The SPK terminal on the Pyronix internal sounder connects to Spk- on the panel (next to the Aux+).

 

[virgilns]

Looking good. One of the neatest DIY installs I've seen.

CU shouldn't affect the panel, the panel is in an earthed metal box.

What are you going to cover the stud work with that will still allow you to lift the front panel off?

I don't really like the mains cable coming in at the bottom of the panel and running so close to the alarm cables but I don't expect it to cause you a problem. Similarly with the telephone cable running near the alarm cables and sharing an conduit.

The SPK terminal on the Pyronix internal sounder connects to Spk- on the panel (next to the Aux+).

Thank you!

The wall will be plaster board and there'll be a small retun above the top of the box level with the tops of the conduit sleeves to give the case room to slide up and off

Wasn't sure about the run on the twin and earth, but didn't think there was really a way of getting round it...has to come in at some point...i can move the box out 5-6mm and run the cable behind the box and in...and then run the tel cable in where the twin and earth was...will have a think.

Thanks for the tip on the pyronix...makes sense.

Now about that comment about 'ONE' of the neatest DIY installs... really not happy about that...I'll have a good tidy up in there before it goes live

Cheers, 'messy Virgil'

 

[virgilns]

I don't really like the mains cable coming in at the bottom of the panel and running so close to the alarm cables ...Similarly with the telephone cable running near the alarm cables and sharing an conduit.

Ok, so had a think in the train on the way home and rerouted the power cable via a new conduit, away from sensor cables etc.

Rerouted the telephone cable up through a new conduit where the old power came in...

new panel

closer view

Hope that's a bit better on the routing side...separated the telephone cable out from the bunch of sensor cables running down the landing joists as well...might as well do it while I've got good access to everything...

 

[Europlex]

The wall will be plaster board and there'll be a small retun above the top of the box level with the tops of the conduit sleeves to give the case room to slide up and off

Be very careful when doing this, that type of control panel lid can be a right ******* to get on/off even when full access is given by surface mounting. A screwdriver blade has to be used sometimes, often, to break the 'seal' to start it moving so it's possible to get hold of it with your hands/fingers to pull it off.