Recent content by Harry Bloomfield

It will, in time, rot your floor timbers, so best to solve it. A quick fix, is to form a sump, and install an automatic pump, to drain the water. Longer term, you need to have the water analysed, to check whether it is rain water, ground water, or fresh tap water, then work from that. If you...

No - TRV pins stick down/in, which means they shut off the flow until freed. Easy to check - remove the head, and try to push the pin down into the valve, with the side of a pair of pliers, or similar. The pin should be able to be moved a couple of mm, against a strong spring. If not, it is...

The vehicle, has to be logged on the system, and logged off, a fixed amount of time later - an hour later I think.

and the other sort of corruption is rife, where the MOT garage carries out repairs, they have a financial interest in finding, or even creating faults, to then charge for carrying out the repair. I once took my car in for a MOT, far from home, and witnessed the tester deliberately twisting the...

True, if all the current, needs to come from the doner battery, but thinner leads are easier to carry for emergencies, and work just fine, if some charge can be transferred to the original battery, with the doner car's engine running/alternator charging, for just a few minutes. Just...

Mine tells you on the dash, when a road light is not working, even so, I like to check at every opportunity - it's not difficult, you can see the reflection of your front lights, in the rear of the car ahead. Tail lights, in shop windows.

You have it fused down to <13amps, so 1.5mm would have been adequate.

They are a lighter gauge steel, so the knockouts can be formed whilst flat, then folded. The surface boxes are pressed steel.

You should not be using a battery, at all, designed as a car battery. Car batteries, are designed to support a short, high current discharge, followed by immediate recharge. A leisure type battery, is designed for long slow discharge, then a full recharge - which is what you need. A car battery...

Correct! My leads are homemade, from coax, containing lots of copper screening, with croc clips much smaller than the usual monsters, on the ends. The heavy duty, manufactured leads, just are not necessary.

Yes, a simple job.

On the plus side, they were much more compact, lighter, than the standard plugs, unbreakable, and so were great for highly portable equipment, especially test equipment - until fitted plugs came along.

Maybe to cover their backs, in case in the future, one does develop a leak?

Then, when it has finished cranking, the used up charge has to be put back in it, causing more evaporation.

The split, was to all for a bit of spring, to grip the fuse end.