Recent content by Johntheo5

Suggest, opening & closing them several times, each time when shut give a little extra squeeze up which will help to get a effective seat/seal, when satisfied, remove (with boiler&pump isolated) that pump centre screw again, get a screwdriver or whatever and just push in the shaft a few mm, if...

The pump should run anytime there is a call for heat from the boiler, the pump may or may not continue running if the boiler cuts/trips out,.. You can see if the pump impeller is rotating by taking out that centre screw, just hold a cloth underneath it when you remove the screw, you might be...

Yes, I would think off terminal 10. There is AFAIK, no auxiliary (end) switch on these valves, the only way I can see it failing in the closed position is if it seizes in this position because if the power failed or the motor burned out then it will fail open.

Generally speaking, pump overrun is only required when all roomstats (or cylinderstat) are satisfied or the boiler is timed/programmed Off, if so, then its recommended that the pump overruns for a period of time, 3 minutes is often the default time, then circulation has to be maintained either...

I thought the "gas supply" was a bit on the hot side allright at 27.6C.:giggle: I think you're next move will be to try and convince WB to revisit (under warranty) so maybe supply them with some info which "proves" that the flowtemp cannot be 15C+ higher than your readings. Suggest, returning...

Slight hiccup?? The pipe where the 24.7C sensor is attached to is the GAS inlet I'm pretty sure and the Boiler Return is most certainly the one with the expansion vessel attached, so might learn something further when/if you move that sensor.

if it's showing zero pressure now, then slowly turn the adjustment screw clockwise, shower off, until you get say 0.5bar, start the shower, watch the pressure and turn the adjustment screw to give a max of say 0.5/0.7 bar. I think these showers are designed to be gravity fed from a cold water...

If you can't access those values then OK. Were you able you located the position of the flow temperature sensor?

You need a to have a flow through the PRV however small so open valves on either side of the PRV and adjust the setting screw clockwise to increase the pressure, keep adjusting until normal flow established. Why do you need two PRVs.

Can you follow the menu instructions in post 63 to see can you get those other readings.

Ensure you don't remove any casing that might compromise the boiler casing gas sealing. If you follow the boiler flow pipe back you might see where the flow temperature is attached, if so, take your own reading as close to this as possible and compare it with the displayed flow temperature. I...

Let WB worry about the (if) 3 way valve. Write down or take a snapshot of these (especially temperature values).

The boiler casing would need removing I would think to check for a 3 way valve. I have a feeling that some mix (or cock) up may occured in the configuring of your boiler and that the displayed flow temperature could or might be taken off a probe attached to the HEX or something like that, but...

2-A2 if defaulting to 1 shows that there is a 3way valve installed, if so, then I'm not sure but it could mean that the boiler can be configured to give PDHW (Priority Domestic Hot Water) and may have other (2?) boiler connections that can go to a cylinder coil flow&return. Does the flow pipe...

"but on factory reset 2-A1 is default 0, fine, 2-A2 is default as 1 on my boiler... so inconsistent with the manual" Low Loss Header 2-A1 is showing 1? NO LLH (and you dont have one) Hot Water System "2-A2 is default as 1 on my boiler" Is your boiler showing 1?, if not, what is it showing...