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mattysupra

From West Midlands
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    Hi Matt,
    How can I find out the correct self leveling compound was used on my kitchen floor in preparation for ceramic tiling? My floor consists of 2 substrates - concrete and wooden. The newly tiled floor has failed and consequently been removed by the builder who laid it.
    I've been getting quotes in from other builders to rectify the problem. One of the builders who has given me a quote, suspects the self leveling compound that was used is not the correct one for my floor. I would really appreciate any advice, or who to contact to examine my kitchen floor.
    Kind regards
    Jane
    M
    Apologies- hate using up your time. V happy to slip you a few quid via paypal for your time as my peace of mind is at stake.

    Matt- probably being thick here, But can u explain what you mean re screeding over the 12mm WBP ply as this will be the finished floor level (ie laid over the whole of the downstairs 18mm boards) before the block goes down.If I am not to ply over the screed then I would assume that it would be screeded up to the level of the ply so that its flush. Apologies- hate using up your time. V happy to slip you a few quid via paypal for your time as my peace of mind is at stake.

    Just give us your paypal address and I'll transfer £20 or something. V happy- honest

    Thanks, Matt
    M
    Hi Matt
    Thanks for the reply

    Glad for you that your'e so busy, bad for me!

    I have spoken to an old boy today: Gary Purcell of Purcell Flooring who seemed to really know his stuff and who I found via the Contract Flooring Association. Talked about using stopgap 300 first and then a Ardex product. I mention this in case you know the name.

    Can I just ask a quick question please?

    Going to fit block parquet- can I screed up to the level of the plyed out main house or do I need to get the screed only up to the level of the boards to then ply on top of the screed i.e have a continuous layer of ply across the whole house. I dont really want to do this unless necessary as I presume I will have to screw the ply down on the screed and this would presumably involve grief re wall plugs, lining holes up, making sure there is no grit between the layer etc. However I dont want to cut corners either. Thanks Matt - I owe you (if ever you break down on the M25 I'll come and collect you for free!)

    Matt
    M
    Hi Matt

    I have a job I need doing- levelling a floor up which is about 30mm too low. I want a proper job done with the right stuff as block parquet is going down on top. Would you be able to do it? The floor is 4.5m x 2.5m and Im in Watford. Id obviously pay you for your travel on top of the job. Could you let me know asap please if interested or not. Thanks. My tel number is 01923 779759. Thanks. Matt
    O
    Hi,

    I've been reading through the forums and i see you're a font of knowledge when in comes to flooring solutions.

    I would really appreciate it if i could get some advice on a floor i want to lay.

    basically i have a 24 sqm floor in a domestic studio space which will be used as a wood workshop, no forklifts or the like!

    It is made up of a 6 inch reinforced slab with dpm seperating it from insulation below.

    The floor is fairly level with about a max 4mm difference over the 4m width, i put this down to footfall over the past 2 yrs, thats how long the slab has been down for.

    I would like to have a smooth finish on top, not a glossy polished finish but just something that is flat and doesn't break up under foot fall.

    I also don't want it to be very thick, ideally between 5-10mm

    I have been advised by manufacturers but not one gives the same answer, sbr in concrete, larsen slc2000, ardex k301.

    I don't want to break the bank but i don't want the floor to crack! any suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

    D
    Hi Matty, ive been looking at kardean and tarkett flooring and i replied to a post you posted a couple of years ago so im not sure if you would get it? but this is the first time i have ever used a forum and have no idea how to use it so sorry if im repeating myself! i was wandering if you would be intrested in fiting a small kitchen and a hall way i guestimate 13 -14 metres to be fitted to concrete flooring? i live in the west midlands area, if you are busy with work i was wandering if you could recommend someone or point me in the right direction!! Thank You.

    Kind Regards
    Eva
    F
    Hi Matt,
    I hope you dont mind me contacting you as you are the wizard on flooring.
    I have followed your post on Leveling a wooden subfloor using 6mm wbp ply.
    I have fixed the ply and created a water tignt rectangle of 1.5 x 2.5 meters.
    I was just about to prime with the fball 131, when I stuck a spirit level over the floor.
    It seems over the width (1.5 mtrs) I have a slope which is causing a 20- 25mm height difference from one end to the other.
    I have cut some more ply to build up a stepping to eleviate the slope and reduce the
    amount of 700 superflex I use.
    I am yet to fix these as I dont know if this is the best solution, as I will be fitting Amtico strips ontop of the levelling compound.
    As I only have one bag of the 700, I am going to purchase another just in case.
    Do you agree with my procedure or do you have any advice...
    I have left the floor until I hear back.
    Thankyou so much for your great post on how to level.
    Franc
    S
    Hi Matt, read some of your old posts about quarry tiles. You said you would tell a guy what to do if he didnt have a DPM, just wonder if you would be kind enough to help me too with the same problem. I have them in my kitchen andwould like to know what to do to stop damp coming up through, I dont think there is a DPM as the house is circa 1900.
    Thanks in advance!
    N
    Hi Matty, you really have excellent posts. I wonder if you could be kind enough to look at my post about refitting Karndean on top of existing tiles. Having seen your posts I would trust your advice. Many thanks
    gavinomahony
    matt, how you doing? i've been fitting cap and cove for a small while, perhaps 6 months? ive been doing a bit for another firm and they want me to do 2 wetrooms a day, just the small disabled adaptions, 4-5m2. Trouble is i just cant seem to do them quick enough! i dont wan to be getting home at 7pm, there must be quicker way of doing things, plus im interested tp see if i can go for any of my nvq's. My email address is [email protected]. Id appreciate some of your time old chap.
    S
    Hi Matty , we are in Windsor Berks, need a flooring guy to rip up an old tiel kitchen floor and lay about 15 sqM Amtico.( House is 1973 , Concrete floor under the old tiles).
    Is this something you would be interested in doing ? Let us know Stu and Sarah 01753 857752
    B
    sorry to bother you but you seem to be the guy to ask after looking at other postings,ive been looking at a bungalow to buy been emty for about a year needs everything ripped out and walls look damp, i could be wrong but think the walls will dry out as the house aint had any heating on for all this time as the carpets are black round the edges i pulled them back and seems to be concrete floors throughout the house with some sort of tar paint on but dont sound really solid if you stamp your feet,but that could just be an echo or something ive never had concrete floors before, the main worry for me is just one room where the floor dips in the middle from most directions, i thought subsidence ive looked for obvious signs al round the house but see no cracks inside or out and everything looks fine...any ideas? cheers alan from blackpool.
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