Recent content by mikeey84

They are pretty good answers (if they are true...), but I was under the impression that you used Type 3 under permeable top layers, not type 1, as type 1 isn't classed as permeable Not an expert though!

Have a read of the paving expert website. It explains what all the BS standards are in relation to subbase etc. It's accused of being a bit over the top for somethings, but with a driveway, you want it right first time, otherwise you'll end up with ruts. One thing to remember, a permeable...

If you have a lintel already, and you're replacing a pvc window with a door the same width, then you can reuse the lintel. It's just a case of removing the brick below the window following the same line down as the window opening. It's a relatively simple job, the main cost will be the door...

Celetox between rafters, taped, then celotex over the rafters, taped, is a fairly standard way of insulating roofs. They key is to leave a 50mm air gap between the tiles and the insulation that is in-between the rafters. The foil on the celotex and the tape (lots of foil tape!) acts as a...

It cost me about £800 10 years ago, so the price is ok. When I had it done, he managed to dig the hole next to pavement, and could reach the meter connection and do the join. He didn't have to dig the pavement up. I didn't mind, as he had the right qualification or registration, which I think...

Buildings deteriorate over time. Things that are fine for years can start showing damp or damage over night after a gradual build up

You need air flow, ie moving air. With only the top open, the air at the bottom of the chimney won't move anywhere

Chimneys get damp as they are subject to rain ingress, both through the top, and potentially soaking through the brickwork. Additionally, water contains a certain % of water (measured by humidity), and old chimneys full of soot, which attract water due to the high salt content. Good airflow...

There's plenty of that in certain sections of the forum! :ROFLMAO:

You will not regret putting more in. I would put as much as possible- even 100mm would be good

Regarding the join between ceiling and wall, it's likely to crack at some point in the future, regardless of what you do. All 3 of your points would work, so I'd just leave it to the plasterer to decide.

I just used whatever was cheapest on Amazon at the time. I think it was mahogany everbuild

One thing that I was recommended to do, to prevent the ply joints showing through lvt/vinyl was to leave a couple of mm gap, and use 2 part wood filler to fill them, and sand it flat. Means you won't see the pattern of the ply, and any slight thickness differences between the ply won't show through

Think the washers are overkill if you are overboarding within the next 10min myself

I find it easiest to stick a couple of screws through the insulation (at an angle to stop them pulling through) so it stays up