Restoring a very old front door and locks

Whooples · 23 Jan 2025

I am looking at restoring a very old front door, not sure exactly of the age but it is rather wrecked including the locks. I’m not sure if it’s even possible to restore it looks like previous owners have done numerous DIY jobs on it already.

I’d like some help regarding the locks as I’m not sure what I need to buy.

Both locks are so worn. I’d like to restore this door and add new locks rather than buy a new door if possible

We have never used this door as a main entrance as we have another door but I would like to start using it.

Any help, advice or recommendations would be much appreciated.

Many thanks

JohnD · 24 Jan 2025

How thick is the door? I would guess it is late Victorian.

You can easily fit replacement locks.

Measure the distance between the centre of the keyhole of your old nightatch and the edge of the door. It is highly likely that a modern BS nightlatch would fit straight in. The staple (the keep on the doorframe) on that type of lock typically falls off if someone shoulders the door, so you may need reinforcement to the frame at that point.

The door may be thick enough to fit a mortice lock where your old sashlock is. But you should not cut the door where the horizontal rail is morticed into the vertical stiles, unless it is abnormally thick, becsuse this will weaken it. You will also need strong hinges.

It looks like there may previously have been a mortice lock that has been patched up, your picture is not clear. When you strip the paint off you may find damage to the wood that has been concealed with filler and needs a strong repair.

If it is not your main entry and exit door, you can fit bolts top and bottom.

crank39 · 24 Jan 2025

Check your home insurance documents too as most insurers stipulate 5 lever British Standard locks to timber doors

Notch7 · 24 Jan 2025

It’s hard to tell but it looks like the door was originally an internal door repurposed - it just looks a bit thin for an external to me.

The middle mortice rim lock is visually in the wrong place the knob should be centred on the rail. The lock itself needs a big back set 5” or 6”

Whooples · 24 Jan 2025

@JohnD thank you for this information I am going to get the tape measure out again and inspect the locks that are already on there

@Notch7 thank you any idea where I can find a lock like the one you described?

@crank39 thank you that’s a good point I will check

I’ll do some more inspecting today. I have no idea about these kind of things or where to start really so your help is very much appreciated.

Notch7 · 24 Jan 2025

Whooples said:
@Notch7 thank you any idea where I can find a lock like the one you described?

you probably want a Union 1448 rim lock 140mm backset

widely available here is an example on ebay

Pardon our interruption...

the door needs taking off and shooting down a bit on the sides and trimming the top so it doesnt look like a dog chewed it

foxhole · 24 Jan 2025

Replace the door , one good kick would put that thru.

JohnD · 24 Jan 2025

Notch7 said:
you probably want a Union 1448 rim lock 140mm backset

widely available here is an example on ebay

Pardon our interruption...

It's adequate for a coal-shed, but no more than an ornament on a house door.

The words "maximum security" are incorrect.

Screwsloose · 24 Jan 2025

JohnD said:
It's adequate for a coal-shed, but no more than an ornament on a house door.

You’re undoubtedly correct, but is the door robust enough to take a British Standard mortice lock? The Union lock (that Notch7 suggested) fits the door without removing some of the limited remaining wood.

But regarding the top rimlock, provided it had the same backset, could it be swapped for one that’s British Standard? That would need only a little chiselling but meet insurance requirements.

JohnD · 24 Jan 2025

Measure the thickness and photograph the edges. The top edge is perhaps unpainted. So is the bottom edge. These are most likely parts to suffer damp, worm and rot. Round the locks there may be old holes and mortices hidden by paint and filler.

Also photograph the hinges. Yours are probably iron and the screws may be rusted or loose. The hinge pins may be weakened by rust.

If you hinge it on the other side, you can probably use undamaged wood for your locks and hinges.

It is possible to get a rimlock comprising a modern BS3621 mortice lock in a steel or brass enclosure to make it look like an antique rimlock.

It is also possible to fix an additional rail to the inside of the door, routed out to make a recess for a lock. This looks a bit primitive but also reinforces the door, like a barricade bar, at just the right place.

Both methods are more common in old buildings such as cathedrals and barn conversions, where they look in keeping.

JohnD · 24 Jan 2025

Screwsloose said:
But regarding the top rimlock, provided it had the same backset, could it be swapped for one that’s British Standard?

Yes.

Whooples · 24 Jan 2025

The door and locks are very battered and previous owners have definitely done bits to both. I’ve taken these extra photos. Maybe a whole new door is needed

JohnD · 24 Jan 2025

I think your door is 33mm thick. This is an internal door and too thin to mortice.

External doors are 44mm thick, and stronger.

I think it has lift-off rising butt hinges, which are self-closing by gravity

Whooples · 24 Jan 2025

Wow that’s really good information thank you

So really I could do with finding an external one then and going back to the drawing board

JohnD · 24 Jan 2025

Internal doors are usually 30 inches wide, and external doors 32. They vary, and Victorian doors in small houses are often smaller. Maybe your house was built with a skimpy door to save money.

In and near Central London, old doorframes are traditionally set into the brickwork with less showing outside.

This is relevant when you look for a replacement.

You are pretty sure to need a new doorframe, but you can easily pick up original front doors, secondhand, from people foolishly replacing them with plastic. They may throw in the locks, keys and letterbox.

I've had them off Freecycle for nothing, but once paid £5. You need a van or a roof rack, or a large hatchback, and at least one helper.

A carpenter can easily cut a frame and door to fit, but may grumble about it.

A DIYer with woodwork GCSE can do it, but worse, and much more slowly.

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Restoring a very old front door and locks

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