12 volt downlighters

[gener]

I am replacing pendant lights in a top floor flat with 12v 35w fire rated downlighters each with it's own 60w transformer. The transformers have no external metal parts and, therefore, no earth terminal on the mains input. The transformers have heat insulated fly leads for both 12v and 230v connections. The 12v leads can be terminated onto a connector block on top of the downlighter. However, can I connect the 230v leads using a tape insulated connector block, which will also be used to loop from unit to unit, or do I have to use a box. The question of access is not a problem since I can get into the loft.

 

[Taylortwocities]

You must not tape up joints.
Use a proper junction box.
If you have loft access, the boxes should be screwed to something solid and the cable clipped to stop them being yanked out.

The earth conductor on the 230V side must be continuous from source through to the last light fitting. Irrespective of if it is required by the light fittings.

Last point.

You say "flat". Are you aware of the building regulations regarding property like this. You must comply with Parts B and E (as well as the electrical Part P.
The downlights you are fitting must be fire-rated as you will be making the fire barrier ceiling into an aerated swiss cheese.
These stringent regulations are in place to stop you allowing a fire that starts in your flat getting into the roof-space and then setting fire to the whole building.

 

[gener]

Thanks for your reply Taylortwocities. I did say in my query that the downlighters are fire-rated. As to the earthing of the downlighters themselves, although they are made of metal there is no connection point on them and neither is there on the transformers which are plastic cased anyway. In view of your advice I shall try to employ a qualified electrician to inspect, test my work and, if satisfactory, certify as necessary. Thanks once again.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I did say in my query that the downlighters are fire-rated.

Sorry, missed that

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am replacing pendant lights in a top floor flat with 12v 35w fire rated downlighters.

A very bad idea. Those types of lights were designed for the retail/display market, specifically made to put out a narrow beam of light to highlight something in particular, or illuminate a small area. Why do you think people often call them spotlights?

They were not designed to provide general room illumination, and are useless at it.

 

[TheOriginalTonkaToy]

I am replacing pendant lights in a top floor flat with 12v 35w fire rated downlighters.

A very bad idea. Those types of lights were designed for the retail/display market, specifically made to put out a narrow beam of light to highlight something in particular, or illuminate a small area. Why do you think people often call them spotlights?

They were not designed to provide general room illumination, and are useless at it.

less at it.
less at it.
less at it.
less at it.
less at it.
less at it.
less at it.
less at it.

The record is cracked...

 

[gener]

Thanks for your comments ban-all-sheds. I should have said that these lights are for my daughter who requires mood lighting not general lighting. She will probably augment the scene with other floor/table mounted lights when required. As a matter of interest, the halogens to be used are 38 degree aluminium reflectors which should give a 1.68 metre floor spread (if I calculate correctly).

 

[Steve]

As a matter of interest, the halogens to be used are 38 degree aluminium reflectors which should give a 1.68 metre floor spread (if I calculate correctly).

Whats the floor spread of a 60 watt filament lamp, or an 11 watt CFL?

 

[RF Lighting]

Yeah but CFLs are poo.

 

[Steve]

Yeah but CFLs are poo.

I have a 20 watt CFL atop my stairs, which lights the area up marvelously thankyou. It is instant start, and instant stop too. And it flickers through the night whilst its off, to let us know its there.