I am renovating a kitchen and bathroom and have come acoss grey plastic solvent weld pipe that is 17mm OD. I measured it with vernier calipers. The building was built in 1974. Does anyone know what this was (3/8"?) and how I can convert it to 15mm copper?
17mm plastic solvent weld pipe - when and what is that?
- Thread starter indecon
- Start date
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have come across it (can't remember the name) you can get adapters for copper 
Poly york.
cheers don
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no probs Kev
If it is dark grey it could be Durapipe - we had this in a House in Derby built in the late 70s.
Whatever it tuns out to be adopt "clean room" principles when making solvent joins.
You can get away with a little with solvent elded waste as there is no pressure, with cold mains it is a different ball game and the only solution to a drip is cut out the join and start again - and you don't always have space.
You can get away with a little with solvent elded waste as there is no pressure, with cold mains it is a different ball game and the only solution to a drip is cut out the join and start again - and you don't always have space.
IJWS15 said:
I've talked to one of the other owners in the block of flats and it turns out that it is Durapipe. What's more, Durapipe still make what they call Class E 3/8 inch pipe which is 17.1mm O.D. It's solvent fit and there is a special solvent that takes 24 hours to go off, which in my mind makes it more glue than solvent.
Durapipe make the fittings to bring everything back to copper normality again. Yeh, I know that someone will say 'why not keep it plastic?' Well, I don't like plastic fittings, especially push on ones and here's why. I have yet to hear of a seal that doesn't lose its 'memory' over years. And without memory, its a bit like the elastic in your underwear. It starts to forget where it should be and then you've got a loose fit, or worse.
Copper will still be leak proof in thirty years time, but I would be surprised if those seals will still be so flexible and water tight after all that time.
I was lucky - went in to Yorkshire Heating (as was) with a piece that had been left in the loft expecting them to know what it was and to stock it!
They did know what it was but did not stock it - sent me across the road (literally) to another pipe stockist who did.
Jointing process I adopted was:
1. Cut pipe square with hacksaw and debur/chamfer end.
2. Degrease both parts of the joint.
3. Roughen with fine sandpaper'
4. Apply adhesive to both joins ensuring the mating surfaces are fully covered - use manufacturers adhesive (it goes a long way on this size.
5. Make joint quickly and leave to set.
Not sure if this is the MI but there was no internet then!
I used to leave joints for about an hour before putting the water back on and did not have any pushed apart. Did have one or two leak when I first started but none after I adopted this process - unlike soldered and push fit if you get it wrong there is no going back, you cut out the join and start again.
Be very careful with saws near the pipe when it is installed - it is very easy to cut accidentally and not as tough as the John Guest tube!
They did know what it was but did not stock it - sent me across the road (literally) to another pipe stockist who did.
Jointing process I adopted was:
1. Cut pipe square with hacksaw and debur/chamfer end.
2. Degrease both parts of the joint.
3. Roughen with fine sandpaper'
4. Apply adhesive to both joins ensuring the mating surfaces are fully covered - use manufacturers adhesive (it goes a long way on this size.
5. Make joint quickly and leave to set.
Not sure if this is the MI but there was no internet then!
I used to leave joints for about an hour before putting the water back on and did not have any pushed apart. Did have one or two leak when I first started but none after I adopted this process - unlike soldered and push fit if you get it wrong there is no going back, you cut out the join and start again.
Be very careful with saws near the pipe when it is installed - it is very easy to cut accidentally and not as tough as the John Guest tube!
polyyork or durapipe get it horsed oot , goes hard and brittle wi age and if it recieves a sharp knock ,get the wellies oot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the input folks. The solution is that the pipe is in fact 3/8 inch Durapipe and I found a supplier who stocked Durapipe adaptors. They are solvent fit and go from 17mm female to female 1/2 inch bsp. From there it's kid's play of course and I'm back in the real world.The solvent is in fact a special one as you might expect and cost £12 for a small tin.
The small tin will go a long way.
Remember that the connectors are 1/2 bsp parallel, don't put a taper fitting in or you will split it.
Remember that the connectors are 1/2 bsp parallel, don't put a taper fitting in or you will split it.
indecon said:
you will need the cleaner too to make a sound joint.
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