19mm condensate drain repair

[RickH]

I have a 19mm ABS pipe passing through wall to exit over an outside drain .... routed 'internally in the timber frame wall' to provides the condensate drain for boiler.

The piece that stuck out of the wall has broken off leaving pipe flush with brickwork.

If the pipe was outside brickwork I would repair with a standard 19mm solvent weld coupler ... but as the pipe is in the brick, I need an 'internal coupler' to do the repair ..... is there such a thing?

 

[Madrab]

Nope, 21.5mm solvent weld pipework is all outside fittings as far as I am aware. I assume access to the internal section isn't possible? Ideally it should be replaced and if it is running externally then best practice would be that it should also change from 21.5mm to 32mm as it exits the wall to minimise the risk of freezing.

You need to be careful though, that part of the pipe is technically seen as part of the boiler flue and if you are manipulating the pipe and it detaches anything from the trap within the boiler then it could leave it at risk.

 

[just pumps]

Take a brick out?

 

[RickH]

I have local plumbers merchants also looking for solution .... they think there may be a ‘ push-in flexible bend used on sink drainers. Plan B would be to remove a brick. Messy and a lot of hassle.
I installed boiler so know the rub of pipe and where it attaches ... it got clobbered by some Landscape gardeners I had in. They deny of course.

 

[just pumps]

Should and I doubt it, but should you find this push in pipe then it will create a "step up" that the condensate needs to get over to flow away does it not.

 

[Madrab]

If you had a SDS and 38mm dry corer then you could core out 30/40mm deep and get a 21.5 to 32mm reducer in.

 

[RickH]

I do have SDS and core drill ... it has been a thought ... the issue would be keeping it steady as centre bit has nothing to bite into.

 

[Madrab]

If you want to centre the tube initially, fix a straight piece of wood onto the wall, just underneath the existing hole with the edge lined up to where you want the edge of the hole to be. Use the piece of wood as a rest for just long enough to get one edge of the tube to bite, then slowly straighten up the drill as you push forward, once the initial bite has fully circled then just core as normal.

Depending on how high the hole is you can actually lie down and use the instep of a worky boot to hold the tube square as it starts to bite.

 

[RickH]

Thx

 

[durhamplumber]

I do have SDS and core drill ... it has been a thought ... the issue would be keeping it steady as centre bit has nothing to bite into.

Tilt it until is starts to bite

 

[dilalio]

I installed boiler so know the rub of pipe and where it attaches

??

 

[HERTS P&D]

Hopefully he means that he 'had' the boiler installed and didn't do it himself.

Andy

 

[dilalio]

Hopefully he means that he 'had' the boiler installed and didn't do it himself.

Andy

Hopefully!

 

[RickH]

No I built my own house, installed all plumbing including the boiler. I did not make the gas connection, I had a Corgi registered engineer to do that and commission the boiler, and issue safety certificate.
There was nothing in law preventing me from doing that.
I also installed all electrics, again no issue with that. (No test cert needed)