2 drain valves outside kitchen for heating

[TryingHardDIY]

Hello, I need to drain our CH system to flush with sentinel X800.

We have only recently moved in the property and thought finding the lowest drain valve on one of the rads would be easy...turns out not.

There was not a single drain valve on the whole system, not even near the boiler. Coincidently I recalled seeing something that resembled drain valves outside under the kitchen door, extremely near to the kitchen rad.

My question is, there are 2 drain valves! Which shall I use? And are these even for the CH system? I have posted a pic to give you an idea.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Double drain valve!?!

• TryingHardDIY
• 17 Apr 2014
• 1

 

[footprints]

Chances are one is on the flow one the return, put a hose on one (check the level in the system is falling to check it is the heating) when it stops open and drain the other. Worth re-washering the drain cock by removing the plug and fitting a new washer, they are a standard size any plumbers merchant will sell a few shrink wrapped on a card.

You might find they get hot when the heating is on depends how far from the circuit they are.

 

[TryingHardDIY]

Footprints...Brilliant. Thanks for your quick response. When you say check the level do you mean in the header tank in the loft? Will it matter what order I do it? And should I close the one after it stops before doing the other?

Will i need to open the vents upstairs to fully drain the system? Basically we have had the insurers out and they have said they will no longer insure us until the system has been cleaned. Trying to save a few quid (new baby and all) by not having a powerflush and have been told the x800 works a treat.

Thanks again.

 

[Tipper]

If they are as suggested then opening either will have the same effect as they are interconnected.

Interesting insurance condition, never heard of that one before.

 

[TryingHardDIY]

Brilliant thanks.

Ha ha...yes, written in big capital letters on the inspection report after fitting a new pump.

And noted re the re washering...Can i get new ones from wickes/screwfix? Im never sure of the size.

Last couple of questions, sorry...

Is this a normal set up, no drain valves inside but only outside?

And to check level to make sure it is the heating I just check header tank in loft?

Thanks Again footprints

 

[TryingHardDIY]

Sorry Tipper, didnt realise you posted the last comment... so thanks to you too.

 

[doitall]

There may be valves under the floor on the inside, look for a trap.

Can drain them both at the same time if you want but clean the header tank of any muck before you start.

You'll find a lot of the insurance rip-off merchants will use powerflush etc as a means to get an extra £500 notes out of you.

Who you with out of interest.

 

[TryingHardDIY]

Thanks.

EON. They have been good for many years at our old property... but to be fair our system in our new place is ancient and i don't think it has ever been flushed or had inhibitor in. Insurers don't like the "one of my rads are cold" as a legitimate problem with the system I think.

Is it necessary to drain in more than one place? I.e. looking under floor boards etc. or am i OK to just do it from the outside drain valve?

 

[TryingHardDIY]

oh and it wasn't 500 they wanted off us...it was 600 for a powerflush.

 

[doitall]

When I said there maybe valves under the floor, I mean stop valves to the draincocks.

When pipes were under the floor we used to extend the pipe to outside and stick a draincock on the end, to prevent it freezing we would have isolating valves under the floor so the bit sticking out would be dry

 

[footprints]

Footprints...Brilliant. Thanks for your quick response. When you say check the level do you mean in the header tank in the loft? Will it matter what order I do it? And should I close the one after it stops before doing the other?

Will i need to open the vents upstairs to fully drain the system? Basically we have had the insurers out and they have said they will no longer insure us until the system has been cleaned. Trying to save a few quid (new baby and all) by not having a powerflush and have been told the x800 works a treat.

Thanks again.

Yes the header tank, as the system drains below the top of the rads open the bleed valves, you can leave the drained one open but put something under it if you have only one hose in case a bit of sludge trickles out and stains the path.

As said powerflushes are a bit of a moneymaking scheme they do work if done correctly but draining and flushing as you are doing can work just as well.

After draining turn the header tank back on don't forget those bleed valve you opened though!!! Let it run out of the drain cocks till it is clear, then fill and drain at least a couple of times before the final fill when you can add inhibitor if you wish. If you really want to go to town remove each rad and flush out in the garden, just mind the carpets sludge is hell to remove!

 

[TryingHardDIY]

When I said there maybe valves under the floor, I mean stop valves to the draincocks.

When pipes were under the floor we used to extend the pipe to outside and stick a draincock on the end, to prevent it freezing we would have isolating valves under the floor so the bit sticking out would be dry

Got you...The kitchen is an extension to a 1930s property, The floor is concreted with vinyl on top. the draincocks are about 0.5m away from the kitchen rad, so I don't think there are any stop valves as it is all concreted over.. Thanks for the help.

 

[TryingHardDIY]

Footprints...Brilliant. Thanks for your quick response. When you say check the level do you mean in the header tank in the loft? Will it matter what order I do it? And should I close the one after it stops before doing the other?

Will i need to open the vents upstairs to fully drain the system? Basically we have had the insurers out and they have said they will no longer insure us until the system has been cleaned. Trying to save a few quid (new baby and all) by not having a powerflush and have been told the x800 works a treat.

Thanks again.

Yes the header tank, as the system drains below the top of the rads open the bleed valves, you can leave the drained one open but put something under it if you have only one hose in case a bit of sludge trickles out and stains the path.

As said powerflushes are a bit of a moneymaking scheme they do work if done correctly but draining and flushing as you are doing can work just as well.

After draining turn the header tank back on don't forget those bleed valve you opened though!!! Let it run out of the drain cocks till it is clear, then fill and drain at least a couple of times before the final fill when you can add inhibitor if you wish. If you really want to go to town remove each rad and flush out in the garden, just mind the carpets sludge is hell to remove!

Thanks again. Dont think i can be bothered with clearing each rad...14 of them!!!