24 Hour or Not...

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Hi guys,

Been lurking for a few weeks... very interesting things which get posted, all of the nightmares, but also useful things I have picked up!

My question is, which is best for central heating timings during winter - 24 hours and heating on the roomstat, or timing it on the boiler (say 6-8am 5-7pm)?

We live in a 1 bedroom ground floor (end) flat, and the boiler is a Potterton Performa 24, 3 rads (2 in the room with the stat, 1 in the bedroom with a TRV) and a towel rail.

What are your thoughts guys?!

Cheers
:)
 
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Not 100%, as never bothered to put to test, but i understand it to be cheaper to run on a lower temp all day when a work etc say 20 on room stat, then when you come in ramp up 2 25 or what ever you are comfy at, apparently this is cheaper when its extremely cold than leavin off all day and turning on when you get in from cold
 
I'm amazed this thread hasn't turned into a bloodbath of opinions, half-baked ideas, and internet factoids :eek:

The basic starting point is that your house itself will lose more heat the warmer it is, so it makes sense for it not to be warmer than necessary.

Warmer than necessary is difficult to define. Obviously when you're home it is fairly easy to say how warm it needs to be, but how cool should it be allowed to get at other times? Allowing the masonry to become too cool can lead to condensation although just how cool varies a lot. A small house full of kids and wet washing might have warm walls running with water while a larger one less occupied can have walls cold to touch without problems. The type and amount of insulation will also make a big difference. If you wonder how we used to cope when you and I were kids, partly we just used to accept damper houses and partly they had a lot more "ventilation", both deliberate and unintentional. Partly, many of the rooms with cold walls just never got heated!

Most of the energy stored in a house is in the solid objects, walls, floors, and fittings, while the air only contains a small fraction of the heat. This means that a house that has thoroughly cooled down can be difficult to heat up again to comfortable levels. The thermostat may say the air is at 20C but you still feel cold because the structure of the house and the furniture is considerably cooler. You might have noticed the effect when you came back from holiday, and not just because you got used to it being 30C in Ibiza ;) So letting the walls cool down will reduce the heat lost through them, but if it causes you to thrash the central heating afterwards you might not gain much from it.

There are other reasons not to let your house get too cold in between needing it warm, related to the way modern heating systems work. Condensing boilers and radiators are most efficiently operated for relatively long periods at relatively low settings, which isn't practical if your house is at 10C when you come home from work. Underfloor heating simply can't raise the temperature of a house quickly even if you were prepared to turn the boiler up. Remember though, that you are talking about an efficiency difference of just a few percent so don't go mad and assume your radiators have to be ticking over 24/7. Also, once the desirable power output drops low enough that the boiler has to cycle you'll lose that percent or two of efficiency, and some would say a lot more besides ;)

This used to be simple, you manually or on a timer turned the heating on when you were in and off at other times. Now the trend in controls is for heating to be "on" 24 hours a day, although with a setback temperature during the night and usually during the middle of the day. Typically the setback temperature will be low enough that the heating won't come on at all at these times because a well-insulated house won't cool down fast enough to reach the setback temperature, so not so different to a simple timer. This has almost reached "mantra" levels with supposedly learned people claiming it is most efficient to keep your house at a constant temperature 24/7. Don't get carried away with this idea. It can work well if you're home for a large fraction of the time and need the whole house to be heated. Otherwise let it cool down when you're not there, especially since you can time the heating to come on gradually an hour or two before you need it. And look into whether you can heat different parts of the house at different times. For example, how much of the house do you need heated to get dressed and grab a bagel in the morning, and how often do you use that box room?
 
Just get a programmable thermostat, and be comfortable with it set as low as poss!
 
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In a property the size of yours there isn't a lot of room for economies but this is my opinion.

You may well wonder whether running the heating 24 hours a day in the coldest weather is cheaper than turning it ON and OFF to suit periods of occupation. I believe it is but fortunately I don’t have to prove it, you can test whether my method is suitable for your property by trying the following:

Firstly:
Leave the heating and hot water selectors on the timer to come on and go off as you would normally operate it.
Leave the room thermostat at its normal setting, what I term ‘comfort’.
Read your gas meter.
Run the system for a week as you normally do.
Read the meter again and log the consumption.
Subtract he first reading from the second reading – that’s the amount of gas you’ve used in the week.

Next:

Set the heating selector on the timer to 24 hours or continuous (not once a day if that is an available option).
If you can, leave the hot water on the setting you normally do (some programmers will not allow this and so both must be placed to 24hrs.)
Read your gas meter.
Run the system for a week but this time turn the room thermostat to half or just over half of its normal ‘comfort’ setting when you go out or go to bed (obviously turning it up to ‘the ‘comfort’ setting again when you come in or get up).
Read the meter again and log the consumption.
Subtract the first reading from the second reading – that’s the amount of gas you’ve used during the week.

As long as the weather over the two weeks is comparable you have a guide to operating costs that is specific to your home.

Simples.
 
My question is, which is best for central heating timings during winter - 24 hours and heating on the roomstat, or timing it on the boiler (say 6-8am 5-7pm)?

What do you mean by: "best"?
Best for what?
Boiler?
Wallet?
Comfort?
Damp?
 
Ooooh controversy.

Answering all points individually will take a while but I have extra jumpers and the missus has a slanket - sorted there.

I never thought about having it set low during the day and then boosting it up in the evenings when we are home.

In this instance, 'best' is from a balance of comfort and expense. I am more of a polar bear, I love the cold and it doesn't bother me, however the missus thinks 24c is cold.

The flat does have issues with condensation and can't be kept below 18c because of damp issues that arise.

Once the time comes to put the CH back on I will do the meter measuring trick and see what comes of it. The flat is probably not well insulated, again nothing I can really do about that.

Thanks for the advice so far lads...

Cannot fit programmable stat, due to it being rented, however this is what I would do if I owned the property...
 
A good quality programmable stat would be your best bet.
In stead of turning on and off, you can set different temperatures for different parts of the day. "Off" would be a low temperature eg 14 or 16
My favorite is the Siemens rev24rf.
 

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