3/4 Drive Breaker Bar

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I need to crack a hub nut on my Peugeot Boxer in order to replace the clutch. It's the 41mm nut, and having experienced the other side when I did the cv joint I know it's extremely tight. 250-300lbs/ft according to the manual. I trashed a 1/2 drive bar last time, and ended up getting it cracked at a local HGV service place. That isn't an option this time, so I need to get a bar up to the task. I already have a 41mm socket in 3/4 drive so can anyone recommend a bar that will handle such a high torque? And as reasonably priced as possible, as I probably won't need it for anything else. I already have a length of scaffold tube.... ; ))
 
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I'm surprised the 1/2" bar wouldn't do (I just stand on mine to shift the nut) but anyway, Halfords 926444-0 will do you fine. Around £25.
John :)
 
Any 3/4drive bar will break it.

Its the spring that does the harm using the smaller 1/2 bar. I'm not sure if you are buying a 3/4 or 1/2 with adapter? Use a stocky pipe to apply steady force to the bar. While your friend gives the socket a gentle tap with the hammer. Try not to bounce on the bar especially the 1/2
 
Thanks gents - last time I used the same 3/4 41mm socket, with a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer and shattered the knuckle on the breaker bar. I'll be using all 3/4 this time and have ordered the bar recommended by Burnerman. Appreciate your advice.
 
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A length of scaffold tube has always worked for me, slipped over the breaker bar take up the lost motion, then quickly jerk in the direction to undo the nut never failed yet!

Wotan
 
I finally got round to starting this job and I'm pleased to report my new Halfords bar plus scaffold tube were easily up to the task. Thanks Burnerman... ;) Anyway, a couple of other things have cropped up that I wonder if anyone has come across. First, the Peugeot gear select cable system at the gearbox end - the cables are attached with ball and socket type joints. Are these just prised apart with a screwdriver or lever? And then there's the offside driveshaft support bearing. The manual says to remove the nuts, then rotate bolts 45° to allow shaft removal. Is a special tool required to rotate the bolts? They seem to have a triangular head, and are sunk into the bearing mount with little available space. I'm using a Peter Russek manual for reference which is pretty good, but a little vague on these two points.
 
Yes for the joints, just use a suitable lever to part them.
Remove or slacken the nuts right off, tap them backwards towards the roadwheel then turn them to the correct position with your fingers or socket and tap the bearing and shaft out. No special tools needed.

;)
 
Excellent, just what I wanted to hear. Cheers Jonny... ;)
 
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