3 port valve question

[Stevie100]

Hello.

I'm a central heating beginner (but a generally competent DIY-er). I need to replace this which doesn't work but I cant find the exact replacement in Screwfix. This item http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30424...g-Controls/Danfoss-HS3-3-Port-Motorised-Valve looks physically similar and has the same sticker on the side, but the one I'm replacing is a Potterton. Can anyone tell me if this one will replace it, and will I be able to just change the top bit and leave the pipe work alone to save me draining the system?

Ta for any help
Steve

Untitled

• Stevie100
• 8 Nov 2009
• 1

 

[petit_pablo]

That one will replace it, go nuts!

Depends why its not working as to whether its viable to only change the motor head or not. does the spindle on the valve move freely?

 

[roguetrader]

dont be so lazy!! drain down replace the whole valve and use the opportunity to fill up with some fresh inhibitor.

 

[Stevie100]

does the spindle on the valve move freely?

Not sure (its at a house elsewhere), but I will check that if I choose the the quick option.

Although roguetrader has maybe made me feel guilty enough to drain it. But then I'll have to be back asking about refilling and getting airlocks out!

It is at least 20 years that I know since it was drained and inhibited. The water is a bit black but nothing horrible (in my random opinion!). Although a little used rad did need flushing once as it got silted up...

If I do drain it, should I put some cleaner in it first, and how long would I leave it in for? Is this the right stuff? http://www.screwfix.com/prods/84838/Plumbing/Central-Heating-Treatment/No-Nonsense-Cleaner-1Ltr

Ta for the help!

 

[kevplumb]

View media item 14937
if you gonna do it do it right

theres a song there somewhere

 

[scatmanjohn]

dont be so lazy!! drain down replace the whole valve and use the opportunity to fill up with some fresh inhibitor.

Drain down

You have too much time on your hands

Bungs...bish...bash...bosh. and on to the next one

 

[twgas]

wouldn't have thought that valve is 20 years old, so it would have been drained more recently than you think.

 

[roguetrader]

you know its the right thing to do if its been that long, think how proud you'll feel as you kick back with a glass of vino plonko next to those nice hot rads knowing youve done it all yourself.

 

[Stevie100]

wouldn't have thought that valve is 20 years old, so it would have been drained more recently than you think.

Oh! I moved in 17 years ago, and it was already broken then! (I like to ignore minor problems!). The house is ~22 years old.

But now the tennant is complaining that he shouldnt have to turn all the radiators off individually in summer to stop them coming on when the water goes on... he has a point...

 

[roguetrader]

dont be so lazy!! drain down replace the whole valve and use the opportunity to fill up with some fresh inhibitor.

Drain down

You have too much time on your hands

Bungs...bish...bash...bosh. and on to the next one

who needs bungs when youve got a lad and plenty of towels!

 

[twgas]

does the spindle on the valve move freely?

Not sure (its at a house elsewhere),

Oh! I moved in 17 years ago

Hmmm! which is the truth? or am I being a bit thick?

 

[Stevie100]

does the spindle on the valve move freely?

Not sure (its at a house elsewhere),

Oh! I moved in 17 years ago

Hmmm! which is the truth? or am I being a bit thick?

I moved in 17 years ago, then I moved out 5 years ago and a tennant is now in the house. But this isn't important! How long is the cleaner supposed to stay in for. And do I just chuck it in the header tank?

 

[twgas]

If it's 17 years since it was turned I would be changing the whole valve.

 

[petit_pablo]

If it's 17 years since it was turned I would be changing the whole valve.

Definately! Dont think a squirt of wd40 will save that!