32amp circuit breaker

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Hi all, I think myself a decent diy'r but this has stumped me. I have a static caravan and I am restricted on amperage, so the problem is when I switch the halogen hob on and the ninja air fryer on the power goes through the 32amp breaker and trips the 16amp breaker on the outside supply. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Just use the one appliance at a time, your demand is greater than the supply offered. Not much you can do about it, unless you generate your own energy.
 
Hi all, I think myself a decent diy'r but this has stumped me. I have a static caravan and I am restricted on amperage, so the problem is when I switch the halogen hob on and the ninja air fryer on the power goes through the 32amp breaker and trips the 16amp breaker on the outside supply. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
As has been said, if the (16A) supply is not adequate to allow you to run both of your cooking appliances simultaneously then I'm afraid that you have no option other than avoiding trying to use them both simultaneously.
 
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Having lived in small energy budget accommodation on projects I would check the wattage of your appliances, you have ( with no other loads) 3840 watts available, we found that swapping out the hob for a single induction ( 20% more efficient than a halogen) stand alone unit we had a draw of 3000 watts with a nija double on the go. Halogens tend to be on all the time, inductions cycle.

But you may be best to get shot of the halogen and shove in a gas one...
 
My Lidi stand alone induction hob is 2 kW with the default at 1 kW, it was used in my late mothers house as the halogen hob was useless, we selected the Silvercrest from Lidi as it has a knob to control it, many touch controls are not wheelchair friendly, they are invisible when seated that low.

I lived in a caravan for years on the building of Sizewell 'B' and understand the problem with in my case a 10 amp supply, it was a case of selecting low amp kettles, low amp water heaters, and converting a fan heater to 500 watt, even then I had the room thermostat with change over contacts so the water heater would only run when fan heater was off.

However I was told back then the mobile homes had to have a 32 amp supply, only the caravans were on 5 or 10 amp. It does seem each county council has "Site Licence Conditions for Permanent Residential Mobile Homes Site" and this can vary council to council, in the main the use of gas is what means they can work with a lower supply to many homes. The rules now require that a TN-C-S supply can NOT be used, the same as a touring caravan. The tourer normally has a battery, so a RCD or MCB tripping does not plunge one into darkness, the regulations say
Every installation shall be divided into circuits, as necessary, to:
(iii) take account of danger that may arise from the failure of a single circuit such as a lighting circuit
(iv) reduce the possibility of unwanted tripping of RCDs due to excessive protective conductor currents produced by equipment in normal operation
without battery power can't see how that would be complied with?

Most air fryer are 1000 to 1500 watt, but it seems the Ninja is often a lot higher so not suitable for caravan use.

There are special inverters, only seen them used with narrow boats, it allows one to use a small supply, typically with narrow boats 6 amp, and charge the batteries typical narrow boat would have 4 x 160 Ah, and use the batteries on peak demand, today there are also stand alone units with lithium batteries, these also allow one to power from low current mains supply or solar, and for a short time have a high power item running.

My own home has this, so although my DNO fuse is 60 amp, with the battery I can draw 72 amp, and if sun shining as well, around 90 amp. It is not designed with this in mind, it is just a side advantage of having solar panels and a battery, if the battery is discharged then there is no extra power. Units like this 1724080648210.pngcan be configured to supplement your supply at peak demand times. The modern lithium battery will normally discharge 1/3 more current to what it can charge at, and a unit around 3.2 kWh will deliver around 3 kW and charge at 2 kW, so will discharge in an hour, and recharge in an hour and a half.
 
Primus stove, sorted....
I have one of these for an emergency
1724081300278.png
it takes a small gas bottle, but after getting use to an induction hob it is so slow. Would not like to use it on a regular basis. Those which run on a larger gas bottle
1724081532170.png
are a bit better, our caravan had a cooker like this 1724081673458.png and one would have thought a mobile home would have also used a cooker of the same style. However it seems some sites don't like gas due to the fire risk. And for some one use to using an electric induction hob, with all the safety features, like auto turns off when pan is removed, I can see the danger of using gas. The amount of times I walk into our kitchen and have found a ring left on, it auto locks off after pan removed for set time, so not a danger, but the same is not true with gas.
 
Oh that brings back memories, no freezer required, would keep for years, it is a on going argument with my wife, why do we need 4 freezers, and yesterday I had to go out on my e-bike to get a loaf of bread, not a single loaf in the freezers. Yes she has a bread maker, but I have never worked out how to use it, yeast to my mind is used for brewing beer.
 
It feels like a pretty long "while". I'm fine thanks (apart from gradually getting older and more creaky :) ) and I hope the same is true of you and yours!

Kind Regards, John
Think I have only been on the forum a handful times since redundancy in 2011, those handful of times have been split by two long periods of time. Good to know your still kicking about, even if a little more creakier. I'm good John, much the same as you. Father time has creaked my joints and bones. But still in fair nick considering, a little more grumpier maybe (according to SHMBO):LOL:
 

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