35 CDI Greenstar EA error after low pressure

[lucky1313]

Hi Guys

Hoping someone might be able to help, went away for a few weeks and the the boiler pressure dropped below 1 and a lot of air got into the system, I’ve repressurised it back to 2 bar and bled all the air out of the Radiators which had a lot of air in. But I was still getting an EA error, so I’ve now opened the auto air valve but still no luck. After pressing the reset button it makes a few normal boot up noises nothing unusual and then I can hear a fan type noise running and it does this for about 2 mins before the EA error comes up again...

I’ve got a freezing 2 year old here so any help greatly appreciated

 

[ollski]

Ea is an ignition lockout so gas supply related....check the gas is on first and then call a man in. Usually a sticking flap.

 

[Deleted member 221031]

+1 for sticking flap-bearing plate

 

[lucky1313]

Thanks for the feedback we definitely have good gas pressure as the gas hob is working fine regarding the flap sticking how would the low pressure issue have caused the bearing flap to stick ? I was thinking more of a pump issue due to running dry ? I can hear/feel the pump start to spin and the pressure gauge moves around a small amount as it does this, it try’s a few times and then comes up with an EA error

 

[ollski]

They’re almost certainly unrelated.

 

[Deleted member 221031]

Low pressure and EA aren’t related. It’s a condensate/bearing plate/gv issue

 

[Gasguru]

Whilst the EA is being fixed get the expansion vessel checked and the system pressure set to 1 bar....at 2 bar you're in for an expensive repair when the boiler over pressurises.

 

[lucky1313]

That’s what I mean though wouldn’t it be unlikely that all of a sudden I have a sticking bearing flap at exactly the same time as the boiler running low on water pressure ..that’s why I’m thinking it’s the pump..

Could the water pressure running low have caused any damage ?

 

[Gasguru]

They're pretty robust boilers..I wouldn't worry about it yet. The EA is just coincidence...are you sure you've not meddled with the valves underneath and inadvertently turned off the gas?

 

[lucky1313]

They're pretty robust boilers..I wouldn't worry about it yet. The EA is just coincidence...are you sure you've not meddled with the valves underneath and inadvertently turned off the gas?

Thanks for reply no I haven't played with any of the valves...we went away for two weeks and have come back to this ...house has been empty so no fiddling...only odd thing was the gas hob didn't fire up straightaway when we got home and then cut out during my cooking but the gas hob fired back up again no issues...the boiler comes from teh same source but could that have an air lock that needs bleeding or very unlikely ? cheers

 

[kidgreen61]

Every EA I've been to has been electrodes.

 

[lucky1313]

Every EA I've been to has been electrodes.

thanks I can here the electrodes clicking multiple times as the boiler tries to fire up...would I still hear the clicking if the electrodes were faulty ?

 

[kidgreen61]

thanks I can here the electrodes clicking multiple times as the boiler tries to fire up...would I still hear the clicking if the electrodes were faulty ?

Yes, but the electrodes also contain the flame sensor.

 

[lucky1313]

Yes, but the electrodes also contain the flame sensor.

Is there anyway I can test the flame sensor ? I have a voltmeter

 

[ollski]

If it’s not igniting there’s no point if there is no window to see the flame they’ll be fairly new anyway. The detection electrode does wear away but it never bends and stays in the flame even when it’s half gone. Honestly get someone in 9 times out of 10 and hours labour and a soft pencil and it’s done with no parts. If you have a multimeter the best thing you can do is check resistance across the gas valve solenoid connections.