4" to 8" sewer connection

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Hello group, hope you’re all enjoying the lovely weather that has been bestowed upon us.
Quick question for the ground workers amongst you, I’m replacing a saniflow (macerating type) toilet with a conventional toilet, I’ve dug out in the back garden and located the sewer pipe, it’s the old salt glazed 8” type, I’m wanting to connect 4” plastic, are there any products available. I’ve included a couple of photo’s below to give you an idea of what I’m planning, the plastic is running from the house, and the pot pipe is falling to the top to the bottom of the pictures, I can’t get a 90 degree connection onto the pipe due to the angles, I was thinking about benching the base out and introducing a chamber. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Regards
Otto
 
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Are Building control involved here? (They may insist you build a chamber on the connection.)

What other access do you have to the 110mm for rodding in event of a blockage? You need to be able to access it from somewhere in case you have problems in future. Personally I'd cut the top off the Salt Glaze to form a half channel, and sweep the connection into the direction of flow to help avoid fouling the benching opposite.
 
Thanks, no building control involved yet. I was going to fit a soil stack with an access port on it for future rodding. It looks as though I'll have to bench the base out and introduce the sewer as a half pipe sweeping bend as you mentioned. Any more advice from yourself or anyone else would be appreciated.
Regards
Otto

PS: - The 8" pipe does not receive any sewer above from where I am making the connection, there are 2 top water gulleys that run into the 8" further up stream of the connection.
 
As Hugh says, cut half channel, use short slipper on new 100mm, brick or sections to m/hole, bench up high enough to just cover underground service, what ever it may be?
No need to fit access to soil pipe, rod up the line.
old un.
 
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It is a foul sewer you're breaking into?? Not quite sure what you are refering to as a 'top water gulley'?

This sort of job should really be checked and approved by B.C.O. otherwise you may find you need retrospective approval in future. Easier to get it passed now (while he can see it!) prior to backfill.
 
Thanks for the reply, the house is an old Edwardian dwelling, the top water I was refering to was the roof gutter downspouts, because the house is so old the rainwater, toilet & bathroom all run into one common line, this is the 8" pipe shown on the picture.
Regards
Otto
 
Big old pipe for 2 gulleys unless you've a massive roof to drain! ;)

A lot of properties of that era have combined foul and storm water drains, although in some cases it can be seperate. Mine is Victorian, we have combined at the rear taking foul and storm from rear roof areas, front roof areas drain to the road, where the water from the road gullies runs into a seperate sewer. (A 15" Salt Glaze IIRC.) Didnt want you to hit the wrong pipe, likely an expensive repair and then you still need to connect the W.C. somewhere!
 
Yeh thanks, I've ran the trench the entire length of the back yard and this is the only pipe I've encountered. I'll tap the top of the pipe with a masonry bit before taking any drastic action to confirm that it is the right pipe. We have the original approved plans for the house built in 1904, and the pipe coincides with the ground plans, it is written on the old plans beside the pipe that it is "sewer & water combined" There was originally a WC and a skullery up bank of the connection that I'm hoping to make so maybe this would explain the excess girth. When they built things in that era, they built them to last, wouldn't you agree?
Regards
Otto
 
Totally agree, they were built to last. The miles of Victorian sewers still in use are testement to the engineering of the time. With the smaller pipes I believe the Sanitary inspector required that a ball was rolled through the completed drain to test it before he would approve it!

Best of luck with the job, 4" pipe is far superior to a muncher anyday! :D
 

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