6mm cable cooker

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Hello, whats the best way to join 2, 6mm cooker cable together to extend it so i can move the socket. Will a yellow butt connector from toolstation work? The cable runs through conduit not chased inside the wall thanks
 
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There are loads of methods
ae235
but main point is the physical protection, in the main though would use a cooker connection unit
AA45COP.JPG
as it also marks where the cable runs so complies with safe routes.
 
If you use butt connectors then you’ll need a proper ratchet crimper. Even then, crimps on solid conductors aren’t the most reliable, I would avoid crimps for a high current application like this. you’d also need a BLUEcrimp for the earth wire, because it’s a different size.

Wago do a connector that goes up to 6mm². May be the better solution?
 
Best way is to solder them and cover with heat shrink then self amalgamating tape.
 
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Best way is to solder them and cover with heat shrink then self amalgamating tape.
I don't think I'd advise a DIYer to attempt that.

I'm not particularly sure I'd want to bother with all that anyhow, sounds a load of effort for something that's going look a mess.
 
You could tell the op.

For instance, would the op need to twist the strands together, or what?

Some soldering techniques differ, I have seen people remove several inches of insulation to make some very pretty knots before soldering.

Yet this wouldn't be possible where cable length is limited.

How would the op solder these cables to get a good solid joint that isn't going to break?
 
I don't think I'd advise a DIYer to attempt that.

I agree, definitely not something I would advise.

Many times. I don’t need to tell you how to solder surely.

Just tell me how you put the heat shrink onto the conductors before soldering them and keep the heat shrink sleeve cool enough that it does not shrink before it can be sld over the soldered joint.

It can be done but requires a lot of the cable's sheath to be removed so the the heat shrink can put on the conductors before soldering and kept away from the heated area of copper until the soldering is completed..

then self amalgamating tape.
to replace the cable sheath that had to be removed

Or are you advocating this type of soldered joint where the heat shrink does not have to be put on the conductors until after the joint has cooled
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Why have i always been told you cant solder 230v. I do a lot of soldering on cars 12v system and now im reading on this to just solder. What's the difference soldering on the 230v or 12v is the solder different or something
 
I think the wires are so thick you need to get a lot of heat in. And somehow prevent the heat shrinking before you want it to.

And put a layer of heat shrink to replace the grey sheeth
 
Why have i always been told you cant solder 230v. I do a lot of soldering on cars 12v system and now im reading on this to just solder. What's the difference soldering on the 230v or 12v is the solder different or something

Who ever told you that was wrong. Many electronic devices have numerous soldered joints in them and some have voltages inside them well in excess of 230v.

Re the various 'how to solder posts above' it appears you are experienced at soldering so I won't elaborate further.
 

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