A badly-fitting plastic door, and a troublesome hinge.

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Hi. I would like to explain, as briefly as possible (though my explanation may still be a bit long-winded) a bit of a problem with our back door. It was installed only last July, but the firm that made the door, as well as the firm that sold it to me and fitted it, have since gone out of business, as many firms have because of the pandemic. The door is a Veka “composite” door. Please see the image uploaded in hopes of making my meaning clearer.


When it was installed, it seemed to be fine, though I did not check the flushness of the inside surface of it (i.e. all round the edge of it, on the inside face), with its frame — I just assumed that the fitter installed it correctly, and the flushness of the inside surface of this door, with the frame, did not even enter my mind.


A few months after the door was installed, I noticed that a pin was sticking up out of the top of the top hinge (there are three hinges, of course). I am certain that there was no sign of this steel pin previously. I tried, several times with a hammer, to knock the pin down again, but it would not move. On closer investigation (using steps), I discovered that the “pin” was, in fact, an Allen-type screw, and that, using an Allen key, the “pin” could be driven down so as to be flush with the top of the hinge once more. However, in turning this Allen key, there seemed to be movement in the positioning of the door in relation to its frame. I felt all along the inside face of the top edge of the door, and noticed that, at the opening end, it was not flush with the edge of the frame (i.e it was “proud” of the frame surface, but tapered to being flush at the “hinge” end of the door).


Another thing that I noticed was that, after I had screwed down the Allen-screw “pin” by several turns (with the intention of making it flush again, of course), it had started to make the pins of the middle and bottom hinge rise — just as the top pin had been, but not as badly. This is what made me stop screwing the “pin” down any further.


Now, I don’t know whether the door was imperfectly fitted (with the “flushness” tapering to proudness) at the outset, or whether it was my screwing the Allen screw down that has made it as it now is. One thing seems certain — the Allen screw “pins” looks correct now, and none of them protrude as they did — not even the top one — which gives a certain amount of satisfaction. However, I would like the door to be fitted correctly and not to see the pin protrude again.


I don’t know enough about adjusting doors to try to get the door to be flush all the way round (as, surely, it ought to be). Can anyone comment on this (and possibly offer some advice?). I have no idea of the principle behind adjusting hinges and doors.
With thanks in hopes,
L.L.
20210216_143651.jpg
 
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A pic of the hinge inside face would be useful. Looks like a butt hinge. Depending on the adjustability of the make fitted, they usually offer some or all of the following:

Height, lateral and compression adjustment.

If I'm reading your post correctly, it maybe needs compression adjustment. This explains:

Academy Windows - After Care - Cleaning and Adjusting uPVC Windows

However no amount of hinge adjustment will compensate for a door that's been manufactured and/or installed in such a manner as to render hinge adjustment useless in terms of tolerances.
 
A pic of the hinge inside face would be useful. Looks like a butt hinge. Depending on the adjustability of the make fitted, they usually offer some or all of the following:

Height, lateral and compression adjustment.

If I'm reading your post correctly, it maybe needs compression adjustment. This explains:

Academy Windows - After Care - Cleaning and Adjusting uPVC Windows

However no amount of hinge adjustment will compensate for a door that's been manufactured and/or installed in such a manner as to render hinge adjustment useless in terms of tolerances.
Thanks for you comments, friend. I looked at the website via the link, and the information given does seem relevant to these hinges on our door. Tomorrow, I shall post a photo of the hinge inside face. I can't understand why the head of the Allen screw, on the top hinge, started to rise as it did. The door may need to be left until the pandemic is over, when I could try to get someone to do the adjustments properly. Those instructions scare me!
L.L.
 
I'm going to bypass all of the adjustment stuff and say why don't you make a claim on the 10year warranty?
 
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As Crank says, should just claim on the 10yr Insurance warranty have been supplied shortly after the door was fitted
 
Thanks for you comments, friend. I looked at the website via the link, and the information given does seem relevant to these hinges on our door. Tomorrow, I shall post a photo of the hinge inside face. I can't understand why the head of the Allen screw, on the top hinge, started to rise as it did. The door may need to be left until the pandemic is over, when I could try to get someone to do the adjustments properly. Those instructions scare me!
L.L.
Yeah if you're not confident, definitely get someone qualified to do it for you. Or as others have touched on you might want to claim on the warranty.
 
A pic of the hinge inside face would be useful. Looks like a butt hinge. Depending on the adjustability of the make fitted, they usually offer some or all of the following:

Height, lateral and compression adjustment.

If I'm reading your post correctly, it maybe needs compression adjustment. This explains:

Academy Windows - After Care - Cleaning and Adjusting uPVC Windows

However no amount of hinge adjustment will compensate for a door that's been manufactured and/or installed in such a manner as to render hinge adjustment useless in terms of tolerances.

Hi, here is the photo I promised. I can see why you suggested uploading it — it probably will make things clearer for you. I would appreciate any further remarks from you. However, as has been suggested, I shall ask for someone to look at it professionally.
L.L.
20210217_105318.jpg
 
I'm going to bypass all of the adjustment stuff and say why don't you make a claim on the 10year warranty?

Well, as I stated earlier, the firm that sold and installed it has gone out of business, also the firm that made it' also, it seems as if Network Veka itself has finished — last time I tried to contact them, it wasn't possible to make a phone call (continuous tone).
L.L.
 
Yes you did state that they went out of business but All Fensa and Certass registered companies have to supply a 10 year Insurance Backed Warranty ( from an external company such as Quality Assured National Warranties (QANW)) that mirror their own warranty for this exact reason, so if they go out of business you still have a warranty. This is why it's always suggested to use Fensa or Certass registered companies.
So providing the Company who fitted your door were registered with Fensa or Certass then you should have this warranty. This is the point that both myself and Crank39 were getting at.
 
Yes you did state that they went out of business but All Fensa and Certass registered companies have to supply a 10 year Insurance Backed Warranty ( from an external company such as Quality Assured National Warranties (QANW)) that mirror their own warranty for this exact reason, so if they go out of business you still have a warranty. This is why it's always suggested to use Fensa or Certass registered companies.
So providing the Company who fitted your door were registered with Fensa or Certass then you should have this warranty. This is the point that both myself and Crank39 were getting at.
Hey, Ronniecabers, that's news to me! Thanks very much for the information. I was under the impression that the warranty was of no use now.
L.L.
 
Oh and Network Veka ' evolved' into Independent Network back in 2017
Yes, Ronnie, I did know that. I had forgotten the new name. Anyway, it does seem to have finished. That's a pity. I wonder whether Veka profiles cannot be obtained at all, now. It's/ it was a good brand.
L.L.
 
First off I repeat what I said before, if not confident, leave it as you might make the problem worse and, although unlikely, might void a warranty claim.

Having said that, looking at the hinge, the top and bottom adjusters will do height and lateral movement. To change compression (the in/out distance) look at the hinge part that's attached to the door. You'd want to slightly loosen the two screws either side of the centre. You'd then insert the appropriate tool in the centre hole e.g. hex key or whatever it accepts, adjust in/out as required then re-tighten the other two screws.

Note that's me surmising judging by the pic.
 
Hey, Ronniecabers, that's news to me! Thanks very much for the information. I was under the impression that the warranty was of no use now.
L.L.

Years ago yes once the company goes bust you are on your own but I think from memory April 2002 installers had to supply insurance backed guarantees, they supply the warranty company with their copy of the warranty whilst still trading and in the event they cease trading the warranty company pick it up from there and mirror the warranty for the rest of the duration of the policy
 
First off I repeat what I said before, if not confident, leave it as you might make the problem worse and, although unlikely, might void a warranty claim.

Having said that, looking at the hinge, the top and bottom adjusters will do height and lateral movement. To change compression (the in/out distance) look at the hinge part that's attached to the door. You'd want to slightly loosen the two screws either side of the centre. You'd then insert the appropriate tool in the centre hole e.g. hex key or whatever it accepts, adjust in/out as required then re-tighten the other two screws.

Note that's me surmising judging by the pic.
First off I repeat what I said before, if not confident, leave it as you might make the problem worse and, although unlikely, might void a warranty claim.

Having said that, looking at the hinge, the top and bottom adjusters will do height and lateral movement. To change compression (the in/out distance) look at the hinge part that's attached to the door. You'd want to slightly loosen the two screws either side of the centre. You'd then insert the appropriate tool in the centre hole e.g. hex key or whatever it accepts, adjust in/out as required then re-tighten the other two screws.

Note that's me surmising judging by the pic.

I shall bear what you say in mind, and will see what happens. Those comments are very useful, my friend.
L.L.
 

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