A damp cottage

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Hi! we have a really damp cottage and asked to have it surveyed, this is the report:-
The property was surveyed,the weather was cold and wet.
The property has single glazing to the front and double glazing to the rear , of various ages.
The property is in a fair/poor state of decoration with water staining on the rear bedroom ceiling and mould throughout.
There are signs of rising damp in the front downstairs bedroom, inner wall. The Kitchen has no extraction.
A whole house ventilation system would greatly improve the condensation issues and mould.
Supply and fit loft mounted whole house ventilation and anti condensation system with thermostatic 500 watt pre-heater £650.
Whilst this would help with the condensation and mould would I not be better off getting the damp problem sorted at the source? what do you reckon? thanks for reading and any possible advice appreciated
cheers
 
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Who did the survey? Was it someone selling whole house ventilation systems?

Of course it is better to tackle the damp at source. The first thing you need to establish is what is the source or sources. Is it condensation, is it penetrating, rising, internal plumbing leak etc etc. or a combination of 2 or 3 of these?
 
Yes It was someone selling whole house ventilation system, so are there people that specialize in damp or should I just get a builder in to take a look?
thanks
 
You can get an inspection from a damp proofing company but bear in mind that like the ventilation salesman most just want to sell injection damp proof courses, some are honest and will give a more objective opinion but there are plenty of less scrupulous firms. Be careful and take advice with a pinch of salt.

You can pay for an "independent" damp surveyor (around £200) but I have heard varying results so as above, be careful.

You could ask a builder to take a look, they should be able to identify building related issues such as leaking gutters, bridged damp proof course/high external ground level etc.

Possibly engage a building surveyor but most will not specialise in this sort of work, if I was paying for a specialist damp survey I would at least expect some disruptive opening up and drilling into walls with at least the use of deep wall probes and preferably a carbide meter. So ask questions before you employ someone, applies to independent damp surveyor above as well.

Probably worth trying the first 3 options and then setting a programme of works based on an amalgamation of the results. I suspect it will be some damp proofing work, some building repairs, extra mechanical ventilation in kitchen and bathroom and some advice about heating the cottage.

Good Luck
 
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Thanks alot, I will take your advice.I think what ever happens I will still need to install the ventilation system so maybe go with that until I can sort the rising damp issue.
cheers
 
Save your money. All you need is a basic extract fan in the kitchen and bathroom. Less than £100 for both.
 
"There are signs of rising damp in the front downstairs bedroom " If your house is fitted with a damp proof course (DPC), then it could be the outside ground level is too high or the rain water good are faulty , allowing gutters to slop water over the wall. If the house has a cavity it should not make any difference, because its the outer skin that gets wet. The cavity often gets blocked with builder muck that falls down the cavity over the years.
If its an "old" cottage, no DPC, no cavity, then you have to rely on a low outside ground level to keep the water away from the house.
So how old is the property and of what construction.?
Frank
 
Are they rock and rubble? , like my Wensleydale cottage? About 2' thick, two skins of flattish stones with the central void filled with rubble. What happens over the years dirt and rotted lime mortar falls down the "cavity" so the bottom part is actually rubble and dirt. The dirt suck up moisture from the ground and keeps the inner skin wet, hence my comment about keeping the external ground water level low. Also any rain that gets in from bad pointing, runs down the inner face of the outer skin and instead of going into the ground 6" below your floor level now wets this pile of dirt.
FWIW In my barn and pigsty I had water coming in right at the joint between the walls and the concrete floor, so I tanked this area up to 12 " high, now there is a band of damp just above the tanking. I really must do the pointing!
Frank
 

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