Accenta alarm no power to keypad

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I have an Accenta alarm system (Accenta 6 I think) & there is no power to the keypad. The main control box has power & I want to have a look inside as im guessig its only a fuse or battery that needs replacing. The problem is last time I tried to have a look in the control box the alarm started going off! Think this was caused by me touching another plastic box installed above the control box - dont know what that is!?

Problem now is, that if I set off the alarm, I have no way of turning it off as the keypad has no power!!

Any ideas?

I would also like to get the alarm serviced so can anyone give me a rough idea of how much this would cost & whats involved?

Thanks
 
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Hello Lee,

The accenta is a fairly easy panel to trouble shoot. You, didn't set the alarm off by touching a plastic box, so you're in the clear on that one. If the system has not been used for a long period, the first thing you need to do is buy a new standby battery. These are situated inside the control panel itself and 'take over' the system when the mains electric fails. If you can handle a screwdriver, you can give the system a spring clean in next to no time. Or you could opt for paying about £70 plus parts to someone else to do the job for you. Tell us a little more about the system, who installed it, when it was last used, if you have had renovations carried out on the property and so on. All these little things are helpful bits of information which shall help to get you up and running again. And don't be afraid to ask questions.

I look forward to your reply,

Take Care,

Chain Daisy.
 
Thanks for the reply Chain Daisy,

I think the unit was installed when the house was built around 15 years ago. No renovations of modifications made. I dont know when it was last used, certainly not in the last 4 years we have lived there! Its only when I thought its about time we did that I noticed the keypad not working (it was working previously as I used it when I set the system off).

I definitely did set it off before, - I tried to take the plastic cover off of this box on the wall to see what it was & it set the alarm off! maybe its some kind of tamper device? I can attach a photo if needed.

Im more than happy to, & would like to have a look myself but am just worried about setting the thing off & not having a way to turn it off! what would be involved in giving it a spring clean & the procedute to replace the battery?

Thanks for your help,

Lee
 
Before wasting money on an obsolete system you need to find out if it is working or if you have stuffed up the keypad levering it apart.

If you undo the main box it will set an INTERNAL tamper off - not outside.

Simply unscrew one of the wires to the speaker and remove the wire - now it will be quiet.

Check the fuses with a multimeter. You can do that with the fuses in situ. Set your meter to 20v DC and put the test probes on each end of the fuse. If it reads zero then the fuse is ok. If it reads 12v then the fuse is blown. Remove it and put a fresh one in. If it all comes back to life reconnect the speaker wire and the battery.

If all the fuses are OK then the keypad is probably knackered (broken PCB track maybe), but you may as well get a new panel.
 
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Hello Lee,

Thanks for the reply.

I have had to bring back to life probably hundreds of systems over the years which were more or less in the same predicament as yours. The fact that a system is old has no bearing on the subject whatsoever, my home alarm was installed about twenty or more years ago and is still going strong, not a day's trouble. You don't need a multimeter to solve a control panel fault nor to bring it back to life, if you did, then 99% of all the people who have posted genuine questions on here would be in a tricky situation. Unfortunately, there are some negative thinkers on the forum who instantly pour cold water on your efforts. That is not the purpose of this forum, we are here to help you and you alone, and not to boost our own self inflated ego's. The simplest thing in the world would be for me to say to you "buy a new system" and end my contribution at that. This does not help you one little bit. First and foremost we need to establish whether you "definitely" need a new panel or whether there are a few more years remaining in the existing system.

Never, ever, check fuses in situ, only amateurs do this. Always remove a fuse and replace with a known good one of the same value. This is very, very important. Never attempt to check a fuse with a multimeter on DC volts, you should have it set to RESISTANCE, But hang on a minute, you don't know what you are looking for yet, you don't know what speaker you are supposed to be disconnecting. I have amatuers who follow me around the forum and pretend that they can solve your problem with one totally ignorant post which is devoid of facts. This causes many people to simply give up before they have started and is not good for the DIYnot forum. Most of the good engineers on this forum shall offer you excellent advice so don't be surprised if the good ones also add to your topic, as well as the idiots who find great difficulty in answering a post in more than three sentences, At the outset be aware that these so called 'three sentence miracle workers' could attempt to highjack you question with sarcastic comments. If I answered a query with a few grossly stupid sentences then I would consider myself not worthy to answer at all. As an example, one of the idiot 'followers' constantly uses my wording in a three or four paragraph reply and condenses it to perhaps two sentences pretending that he has thought of it.

You have posted a genuine query and as far as I am concerned it is yourself that figures uppermost and deserves my full attention, not in sentences, but in paragraphs which shall help you not only now, but in the future also. Not by picking the best bits out of other people's posts and pretending to give the impression that they know anything. And don't be fooled by the number of 'thankyou's' they have received since most of these are from their own little fraternity or gang. Nor should you be concerned about the fact that they may have posted 24,000 times since this means absolutely nothing if their posts are limited to sometimes one or two sentences which contain no intrinsic value for the original query.

I and other good engineers shall do our utmost to help you to resolve your current, and future, queries. But beware of unhelpful posts which tend to throw you off track since that is not the purpose of DIYnot.

Your system is very straightforward. If you could first and foremost tell us how many detection devices are on the property and whether or not a light comes on when you are in their vicinity, that will be a good start. Take it one step at a time.

Best Wishes,

Chain Daisy.
 
Always remove a fuse and replace with a known good one of the same value.
Time for a rethink. The fuse probably blew due to excessive current to to a fault. If the fault is still there then the excess current will flow again until the fuse blows.

This is very, very important. Never attempt to check a fuse with a multimeter on DC volts, you should have it set to RESISTANCE,
Test a fuse that is not is use with a resistance check.

Never, ever, check fuses in situ, only amateurs do this.
You are wrong. First checks are to look for any fuses that have a voltage difference between their ends. If the difference is more than a few millivolts then the fuse has blown. The voltage range should be set higher than the voltage of the circuit the fuse is protecting as a blown fuse will probably have that much voltage between it's ends.
 
First of all the OP MUST have a £5 multimeter or better becuase without it he can't check the voltages and the resistance on the zones (particularly the tamper circuits).

The reason he should check the fuses it situ (apart from what Bernard said) is that amateur repairers invariably bend the fuse carriers when clipping fuses in an out, which then causes problems to the circuits supplied (open circuit etc).
 
Hi people, sorry for causing an argument! I appreciate all the help and advice given on here whoever it is from. Chain Daisy I would appreciate it if you were involved in the topic as you information and instructions are concise and informative.

I am happy checking fuses with multimeters etc, its just I don't know at the moment which ones to change, or more importantly getting into the control box without the thing going off!

The system has 5 detection devices from what I can see, 4 downstairs and 1 up, all of which have the light come on when I walk in front of them. The main box has the power light on but the keypad has no power ( except for the number buttons lit).

I've attached some photos if that helps - one of the keypad and on of the control box (& additional box above that set it off before!)



GALLERY]
 
I am happy checking fuses with multimeters etc, its just I don't know at the moment which ones to change,
I tend to change those fuses which my measurements indicate have blown. Before replacing them I tend to try and accurately diagnose the fault that caused the fuse to blow.
 
if theres no power to the keypad why is it lit up ? think you need a re-think on the issue its probably stalled see other post burnt out resistor/ faulty battery or you have lost the data connection to the keypad ( damaged.
 
Sparkymarka - I don't know why it's lit up, that's why I'm asking on here!! All I know is the power light is of and it doesn't work!

Now wishing daisy would come back with some helpful advice!! :D
 
Hello Lee,

Are you ready to start trouble shooting after all the hullabaloo has gone quiet ? If so, you will need the user and installation instructions (just so that we are all looking at the same page ). Send me a private message with your e.mail address (don't post your address on open forum) and I'll get them off to you. Sparkymarka has given good advice as usual, and it is from the standpoint of this advice that we should make a start. If you want to go ahead, let me know. I can trust Sparkymarka and a few others on the forum to 'put me straight' if I am giving incorrect advice and I don't mind it one bit when it comes from engineers of his quality.

Let me know what you intend to do.

Take care mate.
 
Yes good to go ahead, - I think I've got the instructions so all good there!

Let me know first steps to troubleshooting
 
Hello Lee,

Thankyou for your reply.

Unfortunately, during the short time I have been a member of this forum, I have suffered an intolerable degree of abuse, from the same minority of members, which emanated from my chastisement of another member who grossly insulted a member of the public for daring to ask a reasonable question. I have no intention of reliving the details but that abuse and uncorroborated innuendo made it severely difficult to take those genuine queries made by members of the public to a satisfactory step by step conclusion. I feel that in the circumstances, unless I am allowed the freedom to offer a small token of help without unjustified harrasment and abuse, it is not within my capacity to continue contributing. At this time, therefore, I feel that it is only fair to yourself and also to the good name of DIYnot, that I forego any further involvement with genuine queries from members of the public for the foreseeable future. I shall however drop in to the security forum from time to time in order to review the posts. I trust that you shall receive the help you require from other members.

May I take this opportunity to offer you my best wishes for the future.

Chain Daisy.
 

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