Adjusting an uneven doorstop - should I even try?

[Aulus]

I was about to hang new hardwood front door, to replace existing 'thin' one. But the door stop is deeper on one side than the other, so at the moment I havw a good fit on lock side, & gap on hinge side. As new door is thicker, I will have a loverly tight hinge fit, but door will sit proud on lock side.

Would anyone recommend I attempt to rebate the lockside dorstop by a few mm with my trusty router or is this best left to a carpenter?

I feel reaonable confident, but I'm SO worried that Im missing something - if I balls it up, Ive ruined my door frame!

 

[big-all]

if its an all in one frame the door stop must be parralel unless its been padded out check through the paint and see if theres a bit planted on or indeed if the door stop is added on later

it could be any combination so just chip away at the paint to expose whats underneath

you could use a router but remember you need a clear flat area to run on with around 60mm either side off the cutter to clear the base plate
you also need a large enough flat surface for the fence or guide bush to run on

as your more likley to manage this at right angles to the walls youll also need to chisel out the last 60mm on each end

 

[mr_mike]

If it's a stuck rebate (i.e. the rebate is part of the integral frame and not a 'planted' on door stop) then I use one of these to ease frame rebates. Record 077a bullnose plane. When you take the 'nose' off it then allows you to get right into the corners.

A little dated in the approach, not as quick, but it's a lot less noisy and messy...!

 

[big-all]

If it's a stuck rebate (i.e. the rebate is part of the integral frame and not a 'planted' on door stop) then I use one of these to ease frame rebates. Record 077a bullnose plane. When you take the 'nose' off it then allows you to get right into the corners.

A little dated in the approach, not as quick, but it's a lot less noisy and messy...!

used mine yesterday

its usualy easier not to take the nose off and use a chisel to finnish keeping in mind youll have a progressive series of 1mm steps as the nose will stop on the previous step left by the cutter

 

[Aulus]

Thanks to all! Router & chisel it is then - I dont have a bullnose plane but I remember them now from school. In the days when teachers taught you how to make a dovetail joint, not a screw or glue in sight!!

 

[big-all]

ok you will have to wear fully enclosed goggles and a dust mask [especialy for the head]

and because the cutter pulls sidways if your using the fence when cutting from left to right the sequence will be work /cutter /fence/ you

in other words the fence must bear on the rebated side