Advice on fitting kitchen tap needed.

[Sharpey]

Hello all.

I'm currently trying to fit a new kitchen tap. I've never done this before. There is very little room to grip the back nut and get enough purchase to nip it up tight enough to make sure the tap doesn't swivel or move on the surface. I can't find a basin wrench or box spanner that would be big enough.

The instructions say to use all the fixings included, as set out in the picture below.



The worktop is quartz though, so do I really need the white tap support in the picture? I was thinking if I remove that I could tighten the nut to the surface of the worktop directly, and the two screws on it would grip the surface and hopefully stop the tap from moving. Given the hole is just big enough for the thread to go through and the worktop is solid, a support bracket might be overkill?

I'd appreciate any advice on this as I'm not sure how to do it otherwise. Tried various pliers/spanners but there just isn't the room for manoeuvre.

Thanks.

 

[Madrab]

If the tap is cut close so the shank is tight in the hole then no, you wouldn't need the support. Not knowing the tap and how it connects to that shank it makes it difficult to gauge how it may connect to the tap body and therefore what different methods of mounting could be used. Was it not possible to fit the tap first before the sink so access to the nut is possible?
What make and model of tap is it and a few more pics of the location and how you are trying to fit it/how much space there is under the worktop may help.

 

[Sharpey]

Thanks.

The tap is this one, Caple Ridley Copper

The sink was fitted first as it needed to be secured for the quartz worktop to templated/fitted. There is a hole cut out on the shelf the sink sits on for access to the tap area.

Here are some pics to get a better idea

How the shank connects to the tap



The thickness of the shank compared to the hole



Underneath the worktop, the access area

 

[oldbuffer]

1. You don't need the white plastic triangle for a quartz work top. They are only really used to stop flexing on thin stainless steel sinks.
2. Thread the flex connectors through the threaded shank of the tap, and screw them into the body of the tap. Finger tight should be enough, but if accessible I like to give them an extra 1/4 turn with a spanner. If not already marked, wrap a piece of red tape round the hot connection.
3. Screw the top of the threaded shank into the base of the tap, remove the back nut with two screws in it together with the rubber and steel washers in your picture. Slacken the screws from the back nut flange but leave them in with 1 or 2 threads showing on the worktop side.
4. Make sure the O ring is fitted in the groove in the base of the tap.
5. Fit the tap in from above. Fit the rubber washer under the work top, then the steel washer, then screw on the back nut. If you have a suitable box spanner, tighten the back nut but don't force it. Otherwise finger tight.
6. Tighten the two screws. This tightening, together with the O ring under the tap body, should prevent the body from turning with the spout.
7. Connect the other end of the flexis to the hot and cold pipe work. Don't screw them directly to isolation valves, as most of these have sharp edges which may damage the sealing washers in the flexi compression fitting. You can get adaptors like Screwfix 2665R to connect to the isolation valve, then use the flexi compression connector onto the plain stub end.

 

[Sharpey]

Thanks for that detailed response oldbuffer, really appreciate it. I get it now, I'll try that later and hopefully it works.