Advice on Wickes Real Wood Layer Oak

[CheshireRob]

Hi,
I have bought some Wickes real wood layer (14mm thick) to fit in our hall and living room. Unfortunately I have not been able to lay more than about 3 boards - the problem is that I simply cannot close the gap along the length between adjacent boards! I have tried tapping it and tensionning it with a floor fitters clamp, and simply cannot get the entire length to close - sometimes one end will close then I go to the other and it pops apart! I have also tried other boards from the same pack (but not other packs, in case I had a defective one or two initially. It has taken me hours to get nowhere - I am on the verge of returning the whole lot and trying a different supplier/product.
Any advice or similar experiences would be gratefully received,
Thanks.

 

[Belle427]

at that thickness you shouldnt really get any flexing to stop it popping in,i had a similar issue with some cheaper flooring a while back,took me hours to lay it,wish id took it back,in comparison the click lok stuff you get from b and q is a joy to lay,not sure about the wickes stuff but do you have to insert it at an angle and then push it flat to engage it?

 

[CheshireRob]

Hi,
Thanks for the reply. The instructions just say 'tap into place with a tapping block' - I have tried this, and I don't think it could be put in at an angle then flattened as it is grooved along two edges (and tongued along the other two). I thought that by going for something a little more expensive it may be better - and would just slot into place. I don't think I am over-looking something simple - or should I expect some gaps (approx 2-4mm)?!

 

[Belle427]

normally a healthy tap with a block will engage it,not sure why yours wont,perhaps you need a bigger persuader!

 

[WoodYouLike]

Have you checked if the board is straight??

 

[CheshireRob]

Good question! I have had a look and none of the boards are completely straight - I assumed a small amount of warping would be normal or acceptable, and they would level/straighten out when layed. The boards have been in the house, laid flat in the packs (as recommended) for about a week - and our house is not really humid or hot. If they should all be perfectly true then I will take them back? Does anyone know of similar problems with similar products (especially from Wickes)?
If I had laid a similar floor before I would feel a little more confident about what is normal or acceptable.
Thanks.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Have you made sure the first row (if more than one board) have the top joins close completely? If not, than your first row is giving you this problem, being not at the right, straight angle.

 

[CheshireRob]

At the moment I cannot get any of the joints (along the length) to close completey - the joints from end to end are fine.
This morning I contacted Wickes on-line who directed me to the manufacturers of the floor. They told me to try a larger tapping block, as they said the one recommended by Wickes is not up to the job for 14mm boards - I am not convinced but am going to try a slightly bigger one from B&Q. It implies to me that there may have been other problems or they at least know they are difficult to lay? Anyway - another attempt tomorrow with a brand new pack of boards.
Thanks for the feedback.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Good quality floorboards don't need a special 'tapping-block', they fit 'snugly' of their own with a little tap using simply a cut off piece of wood.

 

[CheshireRob]

Thanks for the advice and help - I have finally made some progress!

So far, in summary, for this Wickes Real Wood Layer I would say forget about buying the Wickes "tapping block set" it is useless (as informed by the flooring helpline people) - instead use a long length (>2ft) of perfectly straight very hard hardwood.
Also ignore the advice about "tapping" - absolutely belt it, but using the length of hardwood to distribute the force evenly along the plank (ie so the board is not damaged).
Finally (as advised by WYL) - make sure the first row is perfectly straight - and against a hard surface (my first board was recoiling off the wedges which were against plasterboard).
Not quite sure how I am going to do the last row yet - but at least I have some of it down now!

 

[greensusie51]

Did you get your floor down in the end, we've had exactly the same problems and now our carpenter and another second flooring contractor has refused to lay it as they said the engineered edges are simply not good enough to result in a seamless finish. (after laying a small section)

I now have to battle with Wickes as we bought it over six months ago which apparently is there refund limit!

it would be good to hear how you got on?

 

[CheshireRob]

I don't blame you for wanting to take it back - you could try taking it to a different Wickes store and saying that you do not have the receipt. As long as they still stock it (I haven't checked recently?) they may give you a credit note/vouchers, which should last at least 6months - not as good as cash, but useful if you reguarly shop at Wickes.
We finally finished laying the floor in our hall (completed first) and living/dining room. The hall is obviously not perfect (gaps, damaged edges, etc) and was very much a learning curve, but the living room looks very good. Once you realise how hard it has to be hit to fit together properly and when working on a big area, it becomes easier.
If you are going to try again I would suggest using a spare/offcut small piece of the flooring, cutting it lengthways, and using that as your "hitting board", with a lump hammer - that way the tongue or grooves do not become damaged as easily. When you get to the final couple of rows, I found it easiest to run a plane along the side of the length of the tongue to make it easier to slot them together - you may then want to glue these final rows.
Good luck!

 

[greensusie51]

thanks for getting back to me, it's good to know it wasnt just us doing it wrong and the 2 "professionals" we got in just wanting to avoid a tricky job.

At least you got yours down by refining the engineering yourself by planing the edges but you shouldnt have to do this especially as it clearly says "easyfix" system!!

I might try your suggestion and take it back to another wickes.....