Advice required for wiring in a new light unit

[Dowser]

Hi,

I have recently floored my roof space and I am in the middle of installing a 4ft florescent lighting unit.

I've the unit mounted and wired (Live - Brown, Neg - Blue and Ground - Green/Yellow) and the cable fed through the roof space to the roof space hatch where the I've installed a 2 Way Pull Cord Switch (I was given a 2 Way pull cord switch by the chap in the electrical supplies store, but I'm guessing I will just be using it as a 1 Way)

The only power feed I have access too is a wall mounted double plug socket and I'm hoping somebody can provide instructions on how I can connect the lighting unit, via the 2 Way Pull cord switch, to the wall socket.

I'm stump on how to wire/connect the wires to the 2 Way Switch so here's pictures of what I have so far and hopefully somebody can help me with this:

Lighting Unit Mounted and cable fed over to the 2 Way Pull Cord:

Cable fed through to Double Wall Socket:

(I'm assuming this will be connected as normal; Brown to Red, Blue to Black, Green/Yellow to Green/Yellow). Please correct me if I am wrong to assume this!

2 Way Pull Cord Switch with cable coming from Light Unit and Cable coming from Power Socket:

(The left cable is running from the light unit. The right cable is running from the power socket)

This is the bit I'm completely stump on and I don't want to proceed without guidance on how to wire this 2 Way switch

Can any members provide some guidance on how which wires go where?

I'm also guessing I might get some feedback that I shouldn't be wiring a light fitting into a wall socket but it's the only power source I have available in this location. If it really is a complete No No then again, please advise.

Here's hoping somebody can help me with this.

Dowser

 

[winston1]

There is no neg, it is neutral. We don't call earth ground in the UK.

You MUST NOT wire the loft light to the back of a socket outlet. It either goes on a lighting circuit (from a ceiling rose under your newly boarded loft) or via a FCU from the socket circuit.

I suggest you have insufficient knowledge to do this and should call in an enectrician.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Oooh. There are several things.

Being extra picky -
Can you replace the cable from socket to switch easily?
It would be better to use 2.5mm² Twin and Earth as, strictly speaking, there should not be solid and stranded cores in the same terminal.
Connect Live to Live, Neutral to Neutral (not Neg.) and Earth to Earth (not Ground unless you are in the colonies).
Also, the cable route from the socket may only run vertically or horizontally.

Then you should install a 3 amp. Fused Connection Unit at the end of the T+E.
These come with switches which you could use instead of the Pull-switch.

You need to sort this before connecting the switch.

 

[GaryGarden]

1st job is to rip out that stranded round FLEX that you have put in and use flat twin & earth at the appropriate size, then you need an FCU between your socket circuit and the new lamp holder. Look at the Wiki for examples of how it MUST be done.

 

[Dowser]

Oh Dear, seems I was badly advised by the Electrical Supplies place, which I will not name and shame.

I told them what I was wanting to do, including tapping into the wall socket, and they gave me all the bits I would need. I did ask them if I should use the solid core cable but they said the stranded core would be fine for what I was doing

Looks like it's back to the drawing board, and I'll be having a word with the place that sold me all the stuff!

Thanks for all the advice.

 

[amjmfareham]

Also, to add to previous posts, don't forget your Rubber Grommets (for the openings of the Metal Backbox), usually of the 20mm size, and Earth Sleeving (for sleeving your Earth wires in Twin and Earth Cable), these are not expensive and can help prevent shorting on the circuit!

 

[Dowser]

To be honest, this light is going to be turned on about 3 times a year. I think I'll just put a 3 amp plug on the twisted core cable and plug it into the wall socket as and when I need it.

Thanks for all your advice everybody.

 

[Iggifer]

Is it just me that thinks that red+black T+E looks more like 1.5mm than 2.5mm?

I guess it could be a trick of the photo

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Oh Dear, seems I was badly advised by the Electrical Supplies place, which I will not name and shame.

I told them what I was wanting to do, including tapping into the wall socket, and they gave me all the bits I would need. I did ask them if I should use the solid core cable but they said the stranded core would be fine for what I was doing .

If so, you can return the cable, even if you've used it, and ask for a refund.

 

[Dowser]

I hope you all don't mind but I'm going to open this thread up again. I really do appreciate all the advice so far and having re-read the comments it seems I have a couple of options:

1) Still take the feed from the wall socket, but use use flat twin & earth coming from the socket and place a 3amp FCU between the socket circuit and the new lamp holder.

2) The new option that I now have is to take my power from an existing light fitting which is quite handy for me to run a cable from and is currently running on a 5 amp fused circuit from the main fuse box. (Pictures of the light fitting are shown below).

If I was to go for option two above, please could you advise on the following:

• The most appropriate cable that I should use to run from the light fitting to the pull cord switch shown in my original post?
  
  
• Is it okay for me to keep the twisted core cable running from the pull cord switch to the light unit?
  
  
• Lastly, when I do have the two cables ends at the pull cord switch, how is it wired? Which wires go to L1/L2 and Com etc?

Please go easy on me... I realise now how horrified you all where when I was considering wiring straight into wall socket. In my defence, I did sign up to a new forum to ask for advise before trying to actually connect anything up... and I had been mislead by the place that sold me the gear for the job

Thanks again
Dowser

 

[Iggifer]

That light fitting is no good for your needs as it only has a switched live and neutral. Meaning if you did take the feed from there, you could only turn the new light on when this one was on.

I would go for the FCU option. Just take note of the other advice earlier in the thread

 

[Dowser]

That light fitting is no good for your needs as it only has a switched live and neutral.

I would go for the FCU option. Just take note of the other advice earlier in the thread

Thanks Iggifer, Option 2 it is..! I'll pick myself up a 3 Amp FCU, 2m of T+E, a 20mm Rubber Grommit and a couple of inches of Earth Sleeve later today and hopeful put this job to bed this evening