Afraid to start boiler...

Joined
20 Mar 2005
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Ok so here's the story...


We are remodeling a room and needed to remove a radiator.

The system has a cold water inlet (with manual override), an AMTROL FILL-TROL expansion tank (1) in basement near "American Air Purger" (2) and float type air vent (3). It feeds a Weil Mclain PCG/CG gas hot water boiler (4).

1. http://www.amtrol.com/filltrol.htm
2. http://www.americangranby.com/itemDetail.asp?toLookup=446-2
3. http://www.radiantheat.net/equipment_air_vents
4. http://www.weil-mclain.com/FTP/disc... CGM Series 6 Installation 550141370 877 .pdf



So I turned off the gas, turned off the electric, hooked a hose to the drain spigot at the base of the system and let the water empty into some unknown crevice in front of my house near a flowerbed. I opened the bleeder valves starting on the highest floor and working my way down until I was sure the water level was below the 2nd floor radiator we removed. Mind you the system "seemed to be working fine" before this project though I cannot tell you if the radiators were working as they were supposed too. This is an old house, new to me. I've haven't dealt with a gas hot water boiler system in more than a few years. Starting on the third (not the fourth... baseboard there no radiator) I definitely heard the system sucking wind as it drained. I hear this sound first on the third floor.

We removed the radiator and disconnected the pipes back to a "t-joint" and plugged each pipe using a screw-in cap wrapped in teflon. I don't think the radiator was in series, it was not part of the original system and seems to have been placed in parallel with a radiator further down the hall. Likely part of a previous renovation, one we are now trying to reverse. This small radiator had an inlet and an outlet, each running through a t-joint into another longer pipe. I am assuming this longer pipe ran from the feed and return in the basement to a radiator that is another 15 feet away from the vertical run. So it's not in series, right? That's a non-issue right?

Attempt to re-fill:
--------------------
So I closed the drain valve at the bottom of the house and opened the manual override on the cold eater feed. I started at the front of the house and bleed each radiator (I kind of think I have 3 separate vertical runs (could they be zones this system is old) feeding the "front, middle and rear" of each floor respectively). I first heard water and then the water came squirting out. I closed the bleeder and moved to the next room.

First floor went as expected. The second floor took a while to fill but eventually the shorter radiators showed signs they were full and eventually the taller radiators hit the same level.

The second floor radiators only trickle, not like the first floor. But on the third floor I hear no escaping air, not gurgling, no noise at all. After giving up for the night I left one two caps open all night long.

The pressure meter on the boiler reads 10-11psi (maybe 12 the expected number) but I am fairly certain I have no water in the radiators on the third and fourth floor.

I'm afraid to light the boiler because I know the system is not full of water. But again, I'm not sure it was "full" when I started this adventure. The radiators upstairs never seemed particularly hot over the last months. Bought the house last fall, so I don't have any history to compare.

1) Is it safe to fire up the boiler?
Can I fire up the boiler and then bleed the upper floors?

2) If it isn't safe, why don't I have pressure at the upper floors?
The boiler's gauge reads 10-11psi, maybe 12, which is the number I expect given the system is cold. I even tried the circulator for a while, but I didn't want to burn it out. I turned the circulator off when it had no effect.

I have plenty of regular water pressure on the third and fourth floor. I imagine the pressure is the same for the boilers cold water inlet, so the system should certainly be able to fill itself.

3) Do I have a blockage?

The air bleed screw in one radiator on the third floor definitely seems to be dry, not like the screws from the second and first floor radiators.

If I had a blockage before shouldn't I have heard something? Some noise when the heat was running?


Or, is the problem where my repair is? Am I required to re-connect the inlet and outflow pipes together where the old radiator had been, is that my problem? The disconnected radiator was definitely connected to a larger system through two t-joints.

If I leave all the radiators closed throughout the house and wait many hours, then open a bleed screw on the third floor i can hear a little bit of gas escape. Maybe 10 seconds worth, maybe five. Then back to nothing.

How do the valves work on the radiators? Is it counterclockwise to open?
I think I opened them all. I deliberately turned them counterclockwise to full. Except three to hard to move. For now I've left them all in the middle. Surely enough to allow the water through.

What's up with that? Where's the water? :(
 
Sponsored Links
This is a UK forum, I am not familiar with the boiler or some of the terminology in the boilers installation instructions, nobody else seems to be replying so I would suggest trying a USA forum .
 
Not a lot of difference ped.

fit the bleed screws back in and do them up, if you have an airlock which seems likely, you could get very wet if it shifts.

it is also possible that the highest rad was a collection point for the system air and may require an auto bleed valve.

Start your boiler up and allow it to heat up slowly with you in attendance ready to shut down if it starts making funny noises.

keep your eye on the pressure gauge and topup as you bleed the rads
 
How concerned should I be about letting cold water into the heated system? I assume opening the manual feed valve while the heat is on will cause death and dismemberment.

I was thinking this might be a good approach: Can't I use the heat to fill the pressure, then bleed the hot vapor, then cap it and turn the system off knowing that when it cools I can add more feed water to the now vacuume system?
 
Sponsored Links
The preset pressure of your filler (12psi) SHOULD be enough to fill a vertical height of 27 feet or so, but it seems like the pressure is low.

• Fully adjustable up to a maximum working pressure of 100 psig
• Factory pre-charged to 12 psig; tank pressure controls system fill

I don't know exactly how it works but why not set the pressure a bit higher? Maybe the gauge isn't too accurate - ours often vary. (Perhaps you pump up the air tank pressure and the Filler device fills the water side to the same pressure - or tries to?)
Another pressure gauge might be revealing!

The pressure in the FillTrol air tank may have leaked away some, it needs to be high enough that there is some air in there to squash when the water expands. For our systems you'd have to do the pressurising WITHOUT pressure being on the air from the water side - you need the instructions!

At the moment the pressure gauge won't rise much on heating cos there are rads full of air. When you get the air out you'll just be compressing the air in the Filltrol tank, so it'll go higher quicker. On our systems there's a safety relief valve which lets water out at 45 psi - I'd be on to the manufacturers of the equipment in your case.
 
I agree 12PSI should be plenty to get me up to the fourth floor. The plumber at the home center told me I'm looking for 12-16PSI. I agree the gauge is old and likely not accurate. But I'll assume this is enough pressure to start the system, and I'll listen closely for gurgles and burbs. Looking for steam and superheated pipes.

This Fill-Trol is one of the newest items in the circuit. I think it's probably fine, and I have read the manufacturers installation and usage manual. It is factory set at 12PSI. The instructions say "DO NOT LET ANY AIR ESCAPE THE SYSTEM". Basically if you release the pressure in the bladder you're creating a hazard and a non-expansion tank. (A steel cylinder filled with pressurized 200 degree water, OH BOY!).

As I understand it the Fill-Trol only operates when the system is on. I understand it handles the expanding water that is heated. It should not do anything when the water is cold (bladder should be fully expanded). Then the hot water forces the bladder to collapse.

Yes, I have a safety valve and it seems to be working fine. Tested several times and the cold water comes out as expected. Then it closes fully, so it seems fine.

I think tonight I'll risk turning the system on and pray it works.

Anybody think that's a bad idea?
 
Seems to me you know enough about what's going on that you won't get surprised. A second pair of eyes/hands might be useful though!
Your boilers are much larger pieces of metal than ours, so I imagine it would react quite slowly, to being turned OFF :eek: as well as on, so take it slow!
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top