amateur wood cutting

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Hi all, I am very new to the world of woodworking. My project/resolution for this year is too learn how to build a guitar, I have got hold of all the materials needed etc. But I have already come across my first issue. When getting some mahogany down to size for the neck today I managed to get quite uneven, this was because I was using the other neck timber as a guide so they would sit flush but my jigsaw couldn't manage the depth and result has been pretty bad. Does anyone have any good suggestions to straighten out the cut. I am thicking the best way would be to put all of my neck timber into a workbench and plane then all at the same time until even. Is this the best practice or is there something better I could do?
 
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bandsaw and spoke shave
you are rather going in at the deep end without the correct tools
you really need to build up your skills gradually to understand how materials and tool interact with each other
 
If your putting in a truss rod, route out the channel for this before cutting anything else (so you have a straight edge to go off). Mark the neck and cut it oversized. Don't cut it to the almost finished size. When you have cut and shaped the fretboard (to the finished size) this gets glued to the neck. When that's done you can then work on the neck with spokeshaves, planes and sandpaper etc to bring it down to the finished size.
Just a word of warning,,, I'd expect your project to take up to a year. Simply planing a piece of timber, can make the timber move a bit, so take your time and don't try to rush things.
I've built a few guitars and at least once I've had to throw a neck away as it's moved after being worked on (actually twisted in such a way as to be unrecoverable) But that's natural timber for you. ;) ;) ;)

Here's a link to a Les Paul type neck being made
http://members.fortunecity.com/jtfish/lpc/neck/nck.htm
 
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Thanks for that advice John I enjoyed the article, I was initially thinking around 5-6 months for the first build but the more I read about carving necks for more I am thinking ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! I have the body already drawn onto the wood just waiting for my band saw to arrive, the timber I have ordered isn't entirely square which is a bit rubbish so first first is to get it all down for an even thickness. I can't decide whether to try a scarf joint as I have enough timber for 2 necks which gives me a practice run or go for a one piece neck. But you're the first person who has said to rout the trussrod channel first, I thought I was the only person who thinks it makes most sense to rout whilst the wood is still straight. As the planning I was going to put all 3 laminates together using g clamps at each end then rest them on a work bench so I could plane all 3 at the same time to be even. Will this work?
 
In my experience then generally if you clamp three of more lengths of relatively thin stuff together and plane the edges, then the "loose" centre piece will get pushed down giving a curved edge and uneven results. you need to clamp jobs like this in several places.
When you get your new bandsaw, set it up and try it on some scrap first. get used to how it cuts before starting anything important. The original blade that came with my Kity bandsaw wouldn't cut straight. Oh, and if the teeth appear to be the wrong way round when you fit the blade, turn it inside out. It's caught a lot of people out. :)
If you're routing grooves in lengths of timber, then a second fence and longer bars so that you can have a fence either side of the workpiece can be a big help.
 
If you know someone who has a planer /thicknesser it's fairly easy to plane 3 pieces of timber, square and all the same width/thickness. Possibly a local wood yard could do this bit for you. As for the truss rod channel, it really is best to route this out before cutting and starting to shape the neck.
PS if your buying a ready made truss rod (probably easier than making one), purchase this and cut the channel to suit it. Follow the manufacturers installation instructions and be careful not to get any glue on the threaded parts of the truss rod. (I use a dollop of petroleum jelly to ensure the threads don't get any glue on them)
What glue are you going to use?? I much prefer Titebond Aliphatic Resin glue (available from most luthier suppliers.
Anyway, best of luck with your project. ;) ;)
 
Unfortunately I don't know anyone who has one, all of my local timber yards have said no to it due to health and safety which I can understand as I work in a builders merchant and I can't do anything before signing about 10 sheets of paper. I am tempted to hire one for a day to get it all done. I am going to use titebond glue for the build I got it from tonetech. Can you suggest a way of cutting the neck at an 11 degree angle for the scarf joint, I am looking at different mitre saws many of which has fixed cuts. Seen as this is a test build I don't want to blow all of my money on tools. But anything £150 is fine by me
 
A saw of any type will only really give a rough finish for joints on fine work. if you're planning to do this sort of work regularly you want a mitre trimmer for doing end grain, otherwise you can make up a shooting board to use with a hand plane. Not as nice perhaps but much cheaper. Again you can make up a jig to "thickness" with a router. There are all sorts of plans for stuff like this on the web.
Power tools and machinery are nice to have, and a great time saver, but if you're doing really fine work, you can't beat hand tools. Apart from anything else, they're not so "instant, and so are more forgiving. Remember anything that can be done with power tools can be done by hand.
 
For the planing of the timber, perhaps you could seek out a local joinery manufacturer and ask them if they'd plane the timber to size for you (probably do it in half an hour for the price of a couple of pints).
As for the 11° neck joint, there are a few ways of doing this. One way is to cut the angle on the neck, another is to chisel the angle on the body. The neck joint has to be fairly tight though. I'll have a look for some drawings and post them later for you. ;) ;)
 
Unfortunately I have already tried that, I have found one person through a customer but I am awaiting a response, as its only a prototype it is comforting to know I have plent of excess to work with but in the future I would like to produce a more finished piece. The Scarf joint with probably just be done with a drawing unless I can conjure a magical mitre saw very tempted to hire. Those pics would be so helpful if you can find them.
Paul
 
I am very new to the world of woodworking. My project/resolution for this year is too learn how to build a guitar

OOh yes start with something easy. :mrgreen:
 

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