Analogue Room Thermostat Replacement to Digital Floureon HY08WE/WW

[jagerfly]

This may seem over the top for a simple room thermostat, but bear with me.
I have an old rotary dial room stat in the hallway, with the usual 4 wires – perm live, switched live, neutral and earth.

I want to swap with a programmable digital LCD stat, Floureon HY08WE/WW but I don’t want the programming on the Floureon to be active at all, just to act as temperature control only and not to take over the functionality of our existing c/h and h/w programmer in the upstairs airing cupboard.

Why? It’s a spare unit that I'd like to use, and don't want to buy another different 2-wire LCD unit. I'm perfectly happy with the upstairs programmer and don't want to have to put the c/h setting on constant just so that the Floureon has programming priority. And on a practical note, most of the time when we change programme settings, we're upstairs, so don't want the faff of going downstairs to where the Floureon will be!

So 2 questions:
Wiring: I have correctly identified each of the existing wires. Am I correct in wiring as follows:
Live to L
Neutral to N
Switched live to L1 (could be either connection 1 or 2 on the attached diagram – not sure if polarity matters?)
Earth is parked, not used

Floureon wiring diagram below:

And in terms of using the stat for temp control only, can I manually set the Floureon programmer as always on 24x7? My logic is that there should then be no actual timer programming to interfere with the programmer upstairs, and the upstairs programmer should then still control timer settings. The Floureon is just then left to activate depending on set temperature.

Or alternatively, is there a way to manually create no timer settings in the Floureon programmer?

I have a conventional condensing boiler and system.

Views much appreciated.

 

[stem]

The reference you give of Floureon HY08WE/WW, and the drawings you have posted are actually for two different products, and the wiring terminals are different as per the diagrams you posted.

The WE version is for Electric Heating and has 16A rated contacts.

The WW version is for Water Heating (ie a boiler) and has 3A rated contacts. Based on your description I believe that this is the version you have, as below.

And with these markings on the back.

In which case, the N (3) & L (4) are self explanatory, and (1) & (2) are the switching contacts. As you say they are just a 'switch', so polarity doesn't matter. I would make (2) the 'switched live' and then (1) would need to be linked to the L terminal (4) to give it something to switch.

I cannot comment regarding the operation of the unit, but as you have another unit already, it should be fairly simple setting that to be on '24x7' and seeing if it works. However, I do see one potential problem. The Floureon is designed to be permanently powered, so if it is supplied via the programmer upstairs, the power to the Floureon will be interrupted every time the programmer switches off. How it will react to that I cannot say.

Some versions of the Floureon are Wifi enabled. If yours is, and provided the upstairs programmer has separate time control of this thermostat, you could set the upstairs programmer to be on '24x7' thus keeping the Floureon permanently powered and use that for time and temperature control via the 'app' which you would be able to do from upstairs.