Angles...angles...angles!

[JPNortham]

Ok, I've reached something of an impass.

A single virtical beam with two boards attached to form a corner. My problem is trying to attach a board when the angle is greater that 90 degrees. Other than trying to shave off a couple of degrees from the angle of the beam, I'm not sure how to proceed with this one? A lot of the remaining design work relies on angles that arn't exactly easy to put together.

Call me ametuer...you'd be right!
Any ideas?
Cheers.

 

[awbcm]

Your best option is to plane / cut a chamfer to match the degree you are trying to achieve.

But depending on the materials used etc other methods may be applied.

To this end a photo and details of materials you are using would help to obtain further advice.

 

[^woody^]

You're an amateur

You'll have to say what these are for if you want the best fixing method

 

[JPNortham]

Your best option is to plane / cut a chamfer to match the degree you are trying to achieve.

Shucks, that's what I'm afriad of. I've got to build the whole thing within a certain amount of time, and to a point where it'll look passable on HD.

It's going to be 6mm or 9mm hardboard sheets screwed to a 75mm x 50mm x 3m virtical beam. Like you said, it's probably going to be something like planeing it, but thats mean doing that down the whole 3m of the beam at at angle which is somewhere around 5 degrees off a right angle.

In theory there doesn't have to be a single beam, as long as there's some other way of fixing it together?

I'm sorry, I've got no photos. It's all virtual right now!

 

[Symptoms]

JP - so this is for set design (hint in the HD ref). If so which side of the structure will be seen - the side WITH the vertical timber or the opposite side?

If it is the opposite side (so no vertical timber can be seen) consider swapping the vertical timber for a series of blocks made from thick plywood. These ply blocks or plates can be cut any shape/angle you like and screwed into position (they are fitted flat); fit as many as you need to create a rigid structure but at least 3 (1 at top, 1 at base, 1 in middle). I'd use 25mm thick ply to give a decent fixing edge and if the structure is 'permanent' consider glue in addition to screws.

These ply plates (known as fish-plates or gussets) can be easily cut with a handsaw in the absence of machinery.

 

[JPNortham]

So just a block of wood with an angled end...hmmm. Never thought of that.
Yeah, the beam is on the unseen side, so it doesn't matter whats there.

As for the 25mm boards, the cost is paramount at the moment, so I need to decide whether it's cheaper to get thicker boards, or ge thinner boards and attach a basic support structure to it. I need to go and see the wood first I think.

Yeah it's for set design, I'm building a 10x12m fully enclosed(except the ceiling) science fiction set for a film over the summer. It'll be up for 6 days, and then I'm taking a sledge hammer to it!

 

[Symptoms]

JP - the 25mm ply is used to make the small gussets NOT for the large panels.

Traditionally these sets were (are) made from a batten frame and fabric covering (light-weight). Consider frames skinned with hardboard (8' x 4' sheets) - light in weight, cheapest option - hardboard about £3.50 a sheet.

25mm x 50mm sawn batten (tile batt) to make the frames (expect to pay about 30p per M and cheaper in a timber yard than a DIY shed) and can be bought in bundles (bulk). Fix together in the corners with corrugated fasteners (or screws) and add maybe a diagonal member for rigidity. Corri fasteners are great for this type of temp framing and once skinned in cheapo hardboard will be rigid. Remember that each panel will gain support from it's neighbour so making a stable installation.

Another trick when building scenery is to consider using steel butt hinges (flap hinges but make sure they're lift-off hinges) to hold the various panels together; this allows the backdrops to be adjustable. A length of batten pinned into the tops of the boards (out of sight of the camera) 'lock' the panels in position. Long straight runs will need to have angled struts (triangles) behind to prevent tipping of the panels; maybe add weights - sandbags - to prevent forward tipping. Obviously, panels at angles will add to this stability.

Yeh, I've done this stuff before.

 

[awbcm]

Fibrous plaster is used extensively in the building of film and TV sets. So why not consider this method there will be no need to shape any timber to size or angle.

You can also talk to Geoff Bickerton he designs and builds TV and theatre sets and is based on the door step of our second city and I am sure he will only be pleased to offer advice.

 

[JPNortham]

I did some looking about Fibrous Plaster, it looks like a kind of Plaster of Paris thing? Using moulds and such like, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Is it better for detail rather than wall sections?

 

[awbcm]

Yes it is plaster of Paris based but it can also be used as adhesive when used with scrim like material. That means you can fix your panels be they MDF, OSB, plasterboard or plywood together with out the need to cut any timber to any particular angle. All the ceilings at the Merry Hill shooing centre are fibrous plaster and the panels are held in place by wads of plaster and scrim. And don’t forget fibrous plaster it sets extremely fast and can be easily sanded and painted.