Another Garage Wiring Thread :)

[Muppet99]

Hi folks, I'd like to add some items from MK's Grid Plus system to my garage and I was wondering if you might be able to help me please?

The Garage
It's detached from the house and was built around 5 years ago (by the previous owners). I believe this was also when the electrics were installed. It's internal dimensions are roughly 5.7 x 5.4m, although there is a notch at the back making it an L shape. This means the internal area is around 28 square metres.

The Current Set Up

• a Wylex NHRS204/40GWU" consumer unit (40A 30mA RCD & 2 MCB's ,6A and 16A).
  
• x2 70W fluorescent lights
• x2 LED external security flood lights
• a garage door opener
• x5 internal 2 gang sockets
• and an external 2 gang socket.

The current lighting circuit goes from the consumer unit to a single 3 gang switch controlling all the lights. The two fluorescents are tied together by a junction box, that sits on a board on top of the joists, between the two lights. I believe this circuit is all made up of 1.5mm twin & earth cable?

The current radial socket circuit goes from the consumer unit, to the five internal 2 gang sockets before heading outside to the external 2 gang socket. I believe this all made up of 2.5mm twin & earth cable?
The only thing left connected to any of the sockets is the garage door opener via a short run of flex and a 3 pin plug.

The New Setup
I'm planning on picking up a 12 gang plate + modules to support the following.

A couple of 1 gang sockets for low voltage car battery chargers. These will be mounted to boards between the joists above the cars, and only have the low voltage cable drop down (when needed). As the switches on these sockets will be out of reach, I'd like to control them with a switch on the wall.

I'd also like to add an extra switch for a new light to go above my workbench. Something like a 20w LED bulb.

I'd love to consolidate the garage door opener in to this as well, so I can turn it off when not in use.

At some stage I'll replace the fluorescents with LED panels. The drivers for which I'm hoping to connect to the existing wiring for the fluorescents. Each panel uses around half the power of the existing fluorescent bulbs and I'm planning on adding around 6 panels in total.

Drawing
Thank you for getting this far I've knocked up the drawing below, I'll not call it a diagram as it's far from being professional.

I think? This should be correct-ish, if not a little over the top? The big questions are...

The pink box at the top, can this be a simple junction box or does it need to be fused at that point? Or will the fuse modules I've added to the grid box be ok?

Is the way I've used the Terminal blocks (Wago connectors) inside the grid box ok?

I forgot to add this to the drawing but I'd like to add some form of isolator to the external 2 gang socket. This is luckily the last socket on the run and I'm hoping something like this fused switch mounted just before the cable heads outside, to the back of the socket, would be ok?

I also forgot to add an earth connection to the grid box itself.

Is this all fundamental a stupid idea?

I've tried to make things as clear as I can but if there's any more info folk need, please let me know.
Thank you

 

[chivers67]

Seems very concise though the Fuses on the drawing should be on the LIVE side not the Neutral as this could lead to a dangerous scenario, The current Fluorescent tubes could be simply replaced with LED Tubes and reconfigured to save cost if your wanted. Fine to feed the external socket by a Switched FCU.

 

[winston1]

You don't need a fuse in the pink box. The CU has a MCB. The external socket does not need a FCU. The plug that goes into it is fused. A double pole isolator could be used. You don't need the fuses for the car chargers either and probably not the door controller as their plugs will have fuses.

 

[Muppet99]

Seems very concise though the Fuses on the drawing should be on the LIVE side not the Neutral as this could lead to a dangerous scenario, The current Fluorescent tubes could be simply replaced with LED Tubes and reconfigured to save cost if your wanted. Fine to feed the external socket by a Switched FCU.

Oh heck! I don't quite know how I managed to mix up the fuses!? Thank you for spotting it
I'll have a look in to LED tubes the panels aren't all that cheap so it would be good to save a few quid.
Excellent news about the external socket!

You don't need a fuse in the pink box. The CU has a MCB. The external socket does not need a FCU. The plug that goes into it is fused. A double pole isolator could be used. You don't need the fuses for the car chargers either and probably not the door controller as their plugs will have fuses.

That's awesome Thank you.
I was going to hard wire the door controller in to the box, to free up a socket but I guess I could just leave it plugged in to the socket?

 

[RF Lighting]

Please do not take winston1’s advice without first fact checking it. He has a habit of making things up.

 

[winston1]

In general LED tubes use half the power of fluorescents and give out half the light and cost a lot more.

Please do not take winston1’s advice without first fact checking it. He has a habit of making things up.

DON'T LIE. AGAIN DON'T LIE.

I never make things up.

The power consumption and lumen output is usually quoted for both LED tubes and florescent tubes so it is easy to verify what I have said. Believe it or not the cost can easilly be found by asking the shop.

 

[RF Lighting]

I never make things up.

I won’t allow you to hijack another thread. I will start a thread called things winston1 has made up and we can discuss it there.

 

[winston1]

No need to make up a thread of lies.

 

[plugwash]

A lot of the "terminal/wago"s shown on the diagram seem unessacery to me. The modules should have sufficient terminal capacity to loop from one module to the next.