Anti-freeze types

[DIYspanner]

ref: Rover 45 diesel

I've looked at the handbook for the right type of anti-freeze.

It has to be ethylene glycol with silicate based corrosion inhibitors.



Apparently anti-freeze with methanol and phosphate based corrosion inhibitors are NOT to be used.

I assume the wrong type of anti-freeze will eat the engine metal away?


Its a pity you can't buy a tester for the strength of the corrosion inhibitors in the cooling system as you can for the anti-freeze level of protection.

 

[Burnerman]

The traditional ethylene glycol stuff such as Comma Coldstream is the one for you here (blue colour).
However if you want to drain and flush thoroughly, the organic acid technology (OAT) products (red colour) will be good too.
Methanol antifreezes (alcohol base) are long gone.
John

 

[xr4x4]

It's got a pig iron block and an alloy head, throw anything in it, it will be fine!

But if it's any help, the anti freeze is red as fitted standard to rovers.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I use the red stuff (at a 50/50 mix) in mine as per manufacturer recommendations. Strongly advise you not to skimp on the correct coolant mix or you risk the head gasket failing.... I found that out the hard way!

 

[DIYspanner]

When I bought the car in 2004, I was able to buy anti-freeze from a local main dealer who'd sold rover cars.

I did an anti-freeze change then using Rover's own orange stuff which I was told was an organic type and had a five year life.

Can't get the stuff now but as long as I adhere to the car manual, shouldn't go wrong.

Why does the wrong stuff damage the head gasket?

Thanks for reply postings folks.

 

[Burnerman]

As a general rule....red stuff lasts 5 years, blue stuff only 2 or 3.
Although both have excellent antifreezing properties, the red stuff is better inhibitor wise.
(Some manufacturers use their own green or yellow stuff, just to confuse things).
No inhibitor coolant attacks aluminium big time, which means the cylinder head is at significant risk, and also those engines with wet cylinder liners.
When corrosion starts, and leaking coolant becomes super heated steam, which can cut a channel into aluminium.....seen this one! At that point a skim is necessary to the cylinder head.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Thanks Burnerman


What's the most practical way to drain the old coolant out of a 45 diesel?

 

[Burnerman]

Radiator cap off, undo the bottom hose from the rad and stand back!
If you can crack off a hose from the heater system, then you'll get more of the old stuff out.
If the expansion bottle remains full, disconnect that and tip the contents out.
Refill slowly, squeezing the cooling pipes as you do....you'll hear if there's water in there and then check the heater operation as soon as you can.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Could I use Comma Xstream G30 Antifreeze in a Rover 45 diesel engine?

 

[Burnerman]

Sure! Best to get the old stuff out as much as you can though as you're not supposed to mix OAT types with Glycol but I really wouldn't worry too much!
John

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

'Wrong stuff' is unlikely to damage the head gasket, but using too weak a mix (i.e. less than 50% antifreeze), can cause corrosion on the mating surfaces of the head/block, and/or damage to HG causing it to fail prematurely I have heard. Think it was a combination of factors with mine, but topping up coolant with water rather than correct antifreeze mix didn't help matters.....

I use this: http://www.carplan.co.uk/index.cfm?product=114