My freezer “packed up”, or so I thought. It defrosted.
so I pulled it out the next day (integrated under counter IKEA, Frostig SF98 …. It’s has electrolux parts. Had a look at it the next day plugged it and it worked. Then it stopped again after getting cold enough, as you would expect. Then it wouldn’t restart until it was left switched off. The electronic board sends power to the fan and compressor motor. Turn off at the mains switch and it reliable starts. Leave it to cool down, and the control board turns on, the fan starts, but not the compressor. I have to switch off totally, leave it for a while and it will restart when switched on. This cooling and leaving takes a long time, so fault finding has been slow.
the operation of the fan leads me to believe the thermostat side of things is working.
These are other observations. There is no wattage plate, just an energy efficiency rating of 198 Kw/hr a year. Effectively 540 watt hours per day.. 10 hours a day at 54 watts?
Switch on and it behaves as it should. Compressor going and the is fridge cooling etc. Power consumption starts at about 65 watts or less and slowly drops to about 50 to 60 W. Switch off and on and it carries on working. Temperature drops to -20 and compressor switches off. Then it consumes 25w, and warms up to about 0 degrees. And defrosts. Switching on and off doesn’t restart at the higher energy consumption. You have to turn everything off and leave it till it’s warmed up again.
It seems that compressors have two windings, a starter and a running one.I have measured the resistance. 18.3 and 28 ohms respectively. They seem to share a common terminal so you can measure the sum of the resistances. I think on startup BOTH windings are active, then the power to the starter is turned off.
Just turned it on and power consumption was 80w! Wonder if both coils are energised? That’s now dropped off to 38 watts and the compressor seems quiet, but the fan is running and freezer warming up.
I suppose I should be measuring mains voltages, but there is a “ starter” assembly connected onto the compressor pins. I think the power to the starter coil is fed through a positive temp coefficient thermistor. Low resistance when cold, as it warms up because of the current flowing through it, the resistance increases to reduce the power going to the starter coil. There is also a big capacitor, some explanations suggest that this stores energy which is used to kick start the starter winding. I would have not thought there was enough energy stored.
the starter unit houses several components PCR, overload protection and all other components plug into this.
It would be easy to swap out the various bits, control panel, power board and starter. problem is they are not cheap. And I haven’t decided if the compressor has a fault and might be sticking when hot!
I can get the think to start but not keep on cycling properly. I have done tons of research but have not come across a similar issue.
im going to try a few more things today.
Any ideas
so I pulled it out the next day (integrated under counter IKEA, Frostig SF98 …. It’s has electrolux parts. Had a look at it the next day plugged it and it worked. Then it stopped again after getting cold enough, as you would expect. Then it wouldn’t restart until it was left switched off. The electronic board sends power to the fan and compressor motor. Turn off at the mains switch and it reliable starts. Leave it to cool down, and the control board turns on, the fan starts, but not the compressor. I have to switch off totally, leave it for a while and it will restart when switched on. This cooling and leaving takes a long time, so fault finding has been slow.
the operation of the fan leads me to believe the thermostat side of things is working.
These are other observations. There is no wattage plate, just an energy efficiency rating of 198 Kw/hr a year. Effectively 540 watt hours per day.. 10 hours a day at 54 watts?
Switch on and it behaves as it should. Compressor going and the is fridge cooling etc. Power consumption starts at about 65 watts or less and slowly drops to about 50 to 60 W. Switch off and on and it carries on working. Temperature drops to -20 and compressor switches off. Then it consumes 25w, and warms up to about 0 degrees. And defrosts. Switching on and off doesn’t restart at the higher energy consumption. You have to turn everything off and leave it till it’s warmed up again.
It seems that compressors have two windings, a starter and a running one.I have measured the resistance. 18.3 and 28 ohms respectively. They seem to share a common terminal so you can measure the sum of the resistances. I think on startup BOTH windings are active, then the power to the starter is turned off.
Just turned it on and power consumption was 80w! Wonder if both coils are energised? That’s now dropped off to 38 watts and the compressor seems quiet, but the fan is running and freezer warming up.
I suppose I should be measuring mains voltages, but there is a “ starter” assembly connected onto the compressor pins. I think the power to the starter coil is fed through a positive temp coefficient thermistor. Low resistance when cold, as it warms up because of the current flowing through it, the resistance increases to reduce the power going to the starter coil. There is also a big capacitor, some explanations suggest that this stores energy which is used to kick start the starter winding. I would have not thought there was enough energy stored.
the starter unit houses several components PCR, overload protection and all other components plug into this.
It would be easy to swap out the various bits, control panel, power board and starter. problem is they are not cheap. And I haven’t decided if the compressor has a fault and might be sticking when hot!
I can get the think to start but not keep on cycling properly. I have done tons of research but have not come across a similar issue.
im going to try a few more things today.
Any ideas
