Auto Waterville Outdoor Wall Lantern with Movement Sensor

[TRENTY]

Right here is the deal i have taken down the old lantern on our new home to be presented with the following 2 red wires, 2 black wires and one earth, now i was assuming these were simply live, neutral and earth?

The Problem is when i try and wire the new lantern we have, i trip the light circuit, could someone please help me with this. The following wires come from the lantern, 2 brown, 2 blue, an earth and a red wire (Load?) (One blue, brown & red comes from the sensor though). Could someone please tell me how to wire all the cables together on a terminal block, the one supplied has 4 terminals, 3 are marked L, N & Earth. I can't seem to find the instructions for it.

I am sorry if this has been posted many times, and i probably sound so stupid

 

[BJS_Spark]

You will probably find that the wires you have coming out of the wall are not just live neutral and earth.

One may be the supply cable (red = live, black = neutral, bare = earth) and the other the cable from the switch wired with the red and black across the switch.

You need to figure out which cable is which by turning off the supply and using a multimeter to check which cable goes to the switch. Measuring across red and black on the ohms range will tell you which is the switch cable as that one will go from hi to low ohms when you switch.

Then wire it up as per any of the relavant posts in the 'for reference' section.

 

[TRENTY]

I managed to recieve a reply from the manufacturers with a wiring diagram, i suspected it was the two red wires that was the problem but it does not matter which one i use it won't work, and if i use the two together it trips the switch. I am at a loss as to what to try next

 

[BJS_Spark]

As I have said you need to identify where the two cables come from to see if they are 'supply' or 'switch' cables and then proceed from there.

If identified as such (and not a switched supply in and out) then the important wires are the blacks as the reds will join together and one of the blacks will be neutral and the other has to be sleeved red and is the switched live from the switch. It is important to TEST the cables before hand and be sure what you have got rather than just wiring up random combinations to find out what will work.

 

[TRENTY]

So one of the blacks does not need wired as well as the one of the reds? Excuse my ignorance

Here is the instructions i recieved http://www.trenty.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/INSTRUCTIONS.zip

 

[kendor]

I managed to recieve a reply from the manufacturers with a wiring diagram, i suspected it was the two red wires that was the problem but it does not matter which one i use it won't work, and if i use the two together it trips the switch. I am at a loss as to what to try next

problem's not so much the two reds as the black, it could be a switched live and you have connected this to the other black which is neutral, hence the short and the breaker tripping.
to help further a post of the wiring diagram may be useful to identify the colours used by the sensor.

 

[BJS_Spark]

With all the diagrams and instructions in the world you will still need to identify by testing which are the switched and supply wires!!!

Do you own a multimeter?

 

[mapj1]

Ignore the maker's instructions - you have a loop-in-light fitting. Not loop-in-switch as assumed by the afore mentioned maker's instructions.
Buy an extra piece of choc bloc. Join red to red, and not to any terminal on the new light and tuck out the way, and then put the light fittings L and N between one black as L and the other black as N.

All bare/green-sleeved wires go to the lamps 'E' connection.

Ideally you should work out which of the 2 blacks is the switched live from the original switch that controled that fitting and make that one the L. However, all fittings that are CE marked will be fine with an L-N reversal (which is no longer considered a fault on a light fitting -GRR) so its not critical to bother doing that to get it going.

That gets you back to pretty much was what was there before, and it will still work if you haven't frazzled the wall switch when you use it to blow the trips.

This is all drawn out in the refernce section, I suggest you take a look.

 

[BJS_Spark]

It was my understanding (correct me if I am wrong please) that ES lampholder fittings, which this is according to the instructions, were polarity important.

According to my training the live should be at the centre terminal and neutral on the exposed screw part. Is this not that important?

 

[mapj1]

It was in BS7671, but post 2001 the wording now says '..except for E14 and E27 lampholders....' So that's everything except SES and ES!
The Blue book says exactly the same, but the other books say (said) '...centre contact screw lampholders have the outer threaded contact connected to the neutral...'

This is what I meant by no longer considered a fault. I too think its sloppy, but I guess as the outer contact is not normally the whole thread just a deep tab that only contacts the bulb when its fully in, the feeling is that it is not really so serious. And, of course it brings us in-line with the rest of the world who don't care about L-N polarity anyway,

Or see the section on 713-09 Polarity, in here, page xi
http://www.niceic.org.uk/downloads/NL138supp.pdf

Regulation 713-09-01 concerning polarity testing now provides
an exemption for E14 and E27 Edison screw lampholders to
BS EN 60238.