Automatic air separator leaking; pressure drops

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I've had a whole new central heating system installed, with an unvented hot water cylinder and underfloor heating, and ever since installation, boiler pressure has been dropping. The installer got through the guarantee period by telling me that it was air in the system, plus in the summer when the CH is off, it can hold for months at a time, but when the system is being used a lot the pressure drops by 0.5 bar over a few days and then the boiler switches off.

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Over the past couple of years I've had various people look at it (original installers, UFH leak specialist with gas tracing) and I've been told by everyone that there might be a leak somewhere as there is nothing coming out of the external overflow outside the property and the water has to be going somewhere. But no one has been able to locate a leak.

Some tiles started lifting up on the ground floor and I thought that must be it but then when I had someone in with gas leak detection kit in he pulled up the tiles and broke up the screed, but the underfloor pipes seemed to be intact. So the floor was all messed up, water everywhere, but no leak to be found. I then identified a leak in a shower (behind the wall tiles) that was likely responsible for most or all of the water that caused the tiles to lift. The only *other* place that I could see any water coming out of anything else was the air release valve on the hot water cylinder, but I thought that the cylinder was for the dhw not the ch, so didn't think this could be related.

So I was stumped for another 6 months or so.

Eventually I came across some forum posts suggesting that some folks had put dye in their CH water to identify leaks. So I got some non toxic UV dye and put it into the filling loop when I (again) had to top up the CH pressure.

Suddenly I found to my surprise that there was indeed CH water coming out of the automatic air release valve on the cylinder - and there was a lot of it!

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(Note the pink droplet on the top of the auto air separator and another one hanging off of the side of it - which may have leaked separately - and also all the pink below. The toilet roll that was down there had been drenched in pink CH water!)

I'm not sure why that would happen, but now I know, I'm also not sure how to go about fixing it. Should the CH water be there in the first place? Do I just need to get my air release valve replaced or is this a symptom of a bigger problem?

Many thanks for any advice

James
 
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A toilet roll isn't an ideal mounting surface for an immersion heater timer.

I was using it to keep it out of the way of the water. The guy who installed it put in incredibly short cables either side so by default it ends up dangling right in the path of the dripping water... Not super safe I would have thought!!
 
Get it replaced. I would suggest putting a lever valve in its place with a new AAV above that.

Thanks for this. I've called up someone highly recommended this morning who referred me to someone else to get it replaced. They are saying that I shouldn't have an automatic air release valve in a closed system (because of gases that are produced or something), especially not with underfloor heating. Better to have manual valve.

Does that make sense? Or should I just get the automatic one replaced?

Also what is the logic of adding a lever valve (so I can argue the case with them)?
 
Lever valve is for main.

Their logic for not having an automatic air vent is a bit bonkers.

Thanks - it sounded it to me, but what do I know... I've asked them to do a lever valve for maintenance and an aav again instead of switching to a manual. Will update here once I know more.

I really appreciate the advice Dan
 
Thanks for this. I've called up someone highly recommended this morning who referred me to someone else to get it replaced. They are saying that I shouldn't have an automatic air release valve in a closed system (because of gases that are produced or something), especially not with underfloor heating. Better to have manual valve.

Does that make sense? Or should I just get the automatic one replaced?

Also what is the logic of adding a lever valve (so I can argue the case with them)?

Oh dear why do boiler manufacturers put them in their closed system boilers then ???

Fit a manual one
http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-f...MIl8q92dyt1wIVlgrTCh2iSg9iEAQYASABEgJxrPD_BwE just remember to operate it ( by hand every so often ) they never leak .
 
You can't see the tun dish ...... who'd install it like that ?
 
You can't see the tun dish ...... who'd install it like that ?

Thanks - per Dan's advice I've put in a little isolator (and a new automatic one) - if I continue to have issues I can use the isolator and swap for a manual one.

You actually can see the tundish (around the side of the tank, just out of view from this angle) but it was bone dry. Nothing coming out of the outside drain off pipe either.
 
Thanks - it sounded it to me, but what do I know... I've asked them to do a lever valve for maintenance and an aav again instead of switching to a manual. Will update here once I know more.

I really appreciate the advice Dan

The guy didn't come. So I got myself a hose pipe and did it myself. Switched off the boiler and control box, isolated the manifold so that I wasn't draining down the whole system, opened the automatic actuators manually, connected the hose so it would drain into the nearby bath, opened the spigot and drained off the bit that was connected to the AAV. Other my inability to get the original olive off, it all went according to plan. Did everything in reverse order (plus topped up my central heating pressure through the loop) to get it back online. Seems to have all gone well.

IMG_20171110_142444.jpg

(re-pressurised system - no leaks so far!)

Now that I've got the old AAV off, it's absolutely full of horrible oily brown gunk. Not only that, the top seal wasn't working (or the top wasn't on tight enough) so it was also leaking out of the sides. I suspect the gunk may be some fernox f4 leak sealant that the original installer had me put in, but also that the AAV was in bad shape to start with (even with gunk, it shouldn't have been leaking from the sides).

Hopefully things will be better now, but time will tell.

Thanks guys for your help, and I'm always open to any other thoughts or suggestions. This has been an incredibly expensive and painful saga. If anyone wants to see pics of my floor being dug up in the attempts to find the leak using gas tracing (he pinpointed it to a place there were not even any pipes!), let me know.

James
 
All the AAV's I use incorporate a separate non return valve to aid hassle free maintenance.
 

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