Bacterial growth in header tank

[nairb999]

Last spring cleaned out my central heating system. After several flushes introduced Sentinel X100. A couple of weeks later I noticed a slimy substance which according to Sentinel was a Bacterial growth which can happen when adding X100 into a central heating system. They suggested to bail out expansion tank and thoroughly clean out with bleach. I have done this on 4 occasions for the growth to come back. Sentinel are at a loss why it has not gone. Any thoughts ??

 

[steve32]

what cleaner was used and was it all flushed out
how many times did you fill and drain the system
did you do any tds or ph readings to make sure it was clean

 

[nairb999]

what cleaner was used and was it all flushed out
how many times did you fill and drain the system
did you do any tds or ph readings to make sure it was clean

Fernox F3 - System was filled and drained 3 times. Did not take any readings as suggested though. Now I have the bacterial growth - will it cause any problems like blockages etc ?

 

[steve32]

If it enters the system it can cause blockages
i would suggest that you drain and hot flush the system at least min 2 times over 2 days i asume that the system was hot flushed when you drained it (clean the expansion tank to stop sediment entering system).
then add x100 to system i dose to approx 2%.
i would also add fernox A F 10 to system x100 and AF 10 are compatable.
If you look on the fernox webb site there is a good description of your problem.

www fernox-technical-technical sheets-biological contamination
and then products-disinfection and bacterial control-AF 10 biocide
also look at test kits-TDS meter and system commissioning test kit

we use the kamco test kits tds and ph meters
www kamco .co.uk
when flushing system we aim the get readings from each radiator and full system flush within 10% of tap water.

hope the above is helpful

steve

 

[nairb999]

If it enters the system it can cause blockages
i would suggest that you drain and hot flush the system at least min 2 times over 2 days i asume that the system was hot flushed when you drained it (clean the expansion tank to stop sediment entering system).
then add x100 to system i dose to approx 2%.
i would also add fernox A F 10 to system x100 and AF 10 are compatable.
If you look on the fernox webb site there is a good description of your problem.

www fernox-technical-technical sheets-biological contamination
and then products-disinfection and bacterial control-AF 10 biocide
also look at test kits-TDS meter and system commissioning test kit

we use the kamco test kits tds and ph meters
www kamco .co.uk
when flushing system we aim the get readings from each radiator and full system flush within 10% of tap water.

hope the above is helpful

steve

Many thanks. Did not hot flush but will give it a try. Would it be OK to carry out the work in spring when the weather should be warmer.

 

[steve32]

yes providing you dont need to vent radiators or remove and refill any for decorating
Before power flushing machines I used to drain and refill a system after cleaning at least min 3 times ie drain system refill run system hot for approx 2 hours drain hot and refill and repeat you need plenty of time.

 

[ExPlumber]

Hi, I have been working for many years in the arena of reducing bacteria in central heating systems, and to be truthful, the additives you get to combat the little bleeders is inadequate for many reasons and with normal domestic installations and financial restrictions an up hill struggle and a battle you will never win! A fact is that in say a 12 hour period the bacteria count will go up by at 'least' 10 to the power of 9 ..that is a 1 with nine zero's after ... so write it out and see the number yourself (one thousand million... slight more than the average lottery win!).. .. in a full day you cannot comprehend the number. The reason why it is a losing battle is simple, the bacteria become immune to a certain extent to the biocide or additive as you may know it as, and adapt accordingly. In Industrial applications to combat the problem (again ... 'attempt' as even the big boys can't solve the problem to any great extent!) they dose the system on alternative cycles with alternating biocides, so one day they use one type and the nest use a different type ... this is in an attempt to prevent or reduce the capability of the bacteria (pathogens) to mutate and become immune. But even this is not working in reality but reduces much more than your domestic installation. The fact is that one type of biocide will be more effective against one type of bacteria, but by being so allows another type say a fungi to flourish more and then the same happens when the different biocide is put in, one type reduces the other has a field day!! But going back to the original statement, there is only a short time frame needed to allow the growth of a huge population again ... my scenario was 12 hours..!! .. Ain't nature wonderful...
The marketing words used to sell you the inhibitors are not really telling you the full story. sorry to bring you such bad news, but don't believe all you read on a label. Good Luck, you gonna need it, I have been in this business for years and I still battling..!!!

 

[OwainDIYer]

If the slime's still growing after 4 years it's probably taken over the house by now ...

 

[spareshunter]

Had this, no solution really as stated, just keep cleaning out, I had one after four years of regular cleaning every three months disappeared???? Not sure what was left in system though.

I thought it could be a Portuguese Man-o-war with no testicles (don't you love auto correct spelling).

 

[JohnD]

I baled my F&E out, wiped it (including lid and ballcock) with bleach, added the Fernox AF10 biocide after refilling the F&E, and it was cured. Had the order the biocide from a plumbers merchant as not stocked.

Not having a lid, I think, makes growth more likely as dirt and dead wildlife can get in. My loft gets quite hot in summer.