Bad skimming?
- Thread starter Bid
- Start date
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A very poor DIY attempt at skimming.
Professional plasterers hardly use any water and the final trowelling uses only the "fat". This way the dry surface shows a clean monotone not a camouflage stained excess.
Skirtings dont need to be removed but (after isolation) face plates should be released and pulled forward.
Woodwork is sponged clean as the work passes by.
Professional plasterers hardly use any water and the final trowelling uses only the "fat". This way the dry surface shows a clean monotone not a camouflage stained excess.
Skirtings dont need to be removed but (after isolation) face plates should be released and pulled forward.
Woodwork is sponged clean as the work passes by.
Again, another very poor looking job, done by someone who can manage to get the plaster onto the wall, but has no idea on how to finish it. Watermarks/drips everywhere, poor finishing/missing plaster along the skirting, skirting left in a mess, and that's only what we can see. Most walls are skimmed with the skirting, architrave etc left on, unless they are to be chaged, or the walls are brand new, and the skirtings etc are put on after. As Vinn said, great care should be taken plastering around sockets, but a pro plasterer would know that, and leave the finished job looking brand new.
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Thanks for your replys, never had skimming done before and didn't know what to expect. I have shown you the worst parts. Only got this plasterer in because of his good ratings on a site. Apart from another full skimming which I can't afford, does anyone have any solutions to remedy this. Appreciate your comments.
If it was me I would ask the guy to come back and remedy the defective areas.
If he doesn't (which is likely!) I would buy some easifill and some filling blades and patch the areas myself. Use masking tape on the woodwork and pull off when wet to leave a crisp edge. Easifill put on properly would only need minor sanding with 180 grit and you won't be able to see it once it's painted.
If he doesn't (which is likely!) I would buy some easifill and some filling blades and patch the areas myself. Use masking tape on the woodwork and pull off when wet to leave a crisp edge. Easifill put on properly would only need minor sanding with 180 grit and you won't be able to see it once it's painted.
Please don't caulk around the sockets, when you need to remove a faceplate you will have a nightmare!
Along the top of the skirting though absolutely
I caulk my sockets where's the nightmare?
As I described above. I prefer not to re-decorate after removing and refitting a faceplate...
is there a post that I can't read? I cannot see any posts of you describing anything, anyway hardly a nightmare , take a razor blade and run it around the plate
My dad is a retired professional decorator. He would never caulk around sockets or switches. Skirtings and archiatraves yes.
Caulking sockets is very bad practice. When you remove the plate the caulk will try to stick to it and will peel off the wall as you pull the plate away, dragging paint or paper with it. Caulking also looks bad since it creates a 'rounded' (and usually uneven) join between the plate and wall, and the colour and texture of caulk will never match the (presumably) white PVC. The plate should sit neatly on the face of the wall, not 'kinda glued to it'.
Always,,, and a far neater looking job.
so if there was a gap between the wall and plate he would leave it? Not every wall is straight and not every box is level I would rather fill than leave gap
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