Band saw problems

[anobium]

Help, my bandsaw refuses to cut square or straight.
Yes I checked the upper and lower guide assemblies, I have adjusted the tension and the rip and mitre fence.
I have even double checked the table and no matter what the dam thing still wanders .
It's a Charnwood W720.
Anybody any idea where I could be going wrong?
PS, I have considered it could be the blade but I have hardly used it.

 

[Jasonb]

This is a common problem. First ensure the blade is sharp and properly tensioned.

Take a scrap of wood say a strip of ply, mdf or 1" timber and draw a line along its length.

Next set the fence well away from the blade and start to cut along the line guiding the timber by hand, after cutting about 9" stop the saw but keet the wood in exactly the same position.

Now bring the fence upto the side of the timber, you will probably find that the timber and fence are not parallel.

You now need to adjust the fence so it is parallel to the edge of the timber, usually screws where the fence joins the mounting bracket.

You sould now be able to cut without the blade trying to pull away or towards the fence.

Most blades supplied with these imported saws are not much good, try Dragon Saws, Duredge, and Axminsters Excalliber blades.

Jason

 

[anobium]

Thanks Jason but I have tried that, I did get it cutting square with the mitre fence but after a couple of cuts it reverted back even after I adjusted the fence to counteract it.
It's looking like the I need a new blade.
By the way re the tension apart from the obvious, ie sideways movement, is there any exact way of ensuring you have the right tension?

 

[Bodgeit and scarper ltd]

If it’s not a good blade it will not cut straight, what you need is a blade made by starrett

 

[Jasonb]

The method I described is for setting the rip fence and for rip cuts, the mitre fence will never be 100% on a bandsaw because you cannot adjust the slot in the table to the blade.

You can buy tensioning gauges but on a light machine they are not really worth the money. What width blade are you using and how many teeth and also what are you trying to cut, you need the right blade for the job in hand.

Jason

 

[anobium]

The method I described is for setting the rip fence and for rip cuts, the mitre fence will never be 100% on a bandsaw because you cannot adjust the slot in the table to the blade.

You can buy tensioning gauges but on a light machine they are not really worth the money. What width blade are you using and how many teeth and also what are you trying to cut, you need the right blade for the job in hand.

Jason

Half inch blade 4 tpi, cutting meranti, methinks this could be the problem!
Do you think a 6-10 tpi would be better?

 

[Bodgeit and scarper ltd]

The blades fitted to new saws are rubbish. My saw when new would always cut to one side. I fitted a screwfix blade and it was ok for a few weeks, I then fitted a good blade and its like a different saw.

 

[anobium]

The blades fitted to new saws are rubbish. My saw when new would always cut to one side. I fitted a screwfix blade and it was ok for a few weeks, I then fitted a good blade and its like a different saw.

I was just about to go to Screwfix to buy a new blade when I read your post, what type did you buy from Screwfix and what did you buy subsequently.

 

[Jasonb]

The 4tpi should be OK on anything over 1" thick and the saw should be capable of tensioning a 1/2" blade.

The SF blades are not too bad, Try an axminster one, thats what I have bought the last few times and the duredge ones are good as well.

Jason

 

[Bodgeit and scarper ltd]

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/West-Skelston-Services-Ltd
that is where i get my Starrett Woodpecker blades from

 

[anobium]

Many thanks for your info Jason and Bodgitt, I have ordered a new blade which should solve the problem.