Bathroom connections, soil pipe and waste ok?

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Currently having a bathroom refit and wondering if my concerns are valid re the attached photos, the soil pipe connection is being moved under the floor, as shown here the new pipe on the left is pointing upwards which I have a feeling indicates an intention to connect to the original point on the right where the previous toilet was connected above the floor. Also a waste connection has been made to this new pipe under the floor as shown (connected with a joint marked top on the side), including cutting a large hole through a joist.

Presumably this arrangement would hold sewage in the pipe under the floor and potentially also backup to whatever the intended source for the waste in the smaller pipe (either a shower or sink)?

Also lots of under floor push fit connectors on the water pipes (I've used them in the past but hey I'm a diyer)

Comments?

Thanks
 

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I don't think many Pro's would be using push fit anywhere, let alone under the floor, solvent weld is neater, stronger and provided its done properly, will never leak. I'd also be concerned about the hole through the joist, its way bigger than needed, and has quite possibly compromised the joist.
Cant comment on what's happening with the external wastes as it's not apparent what they're trying to do.
 
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That awful great hole
And shouldn't be any larger than a 1/4 of the height of the joist. That looks much larger than that, unacceptable IMO.

Of course they shouldn't run that soil pipe 'up' to the current branch on the stack. They would need to cut a new branch in below the level of the new soil pipe. Also, couldn't they have cored a nice neat 125mm hole?

If they've used plastic to pipe up the water services in the bathroom then they would either have to use pushfit or compression - pushfit would be the matched connection method types for plastic pipe - what was discussed/agreed as part of the quote, was the pipe material even discussed? Plastic's fantastic though obviously quicker and easier to run, copper's proper but more expensive and takes a little longer.

Time to stop the bus and have a frank discussion with your trade methinks.
 
Pro with 20 years experience apparently

Hole in joist is 85cm along a 280cm joist and varies between 10cm and 9cm in diameter. Joist height is 20cm so 6cm remains above and 5cm below.

Re coreing the external hole, they did do a nice round core but then it seems they found that the push fit was too big so hammered the hole bigger.
 
Pro with 20 years experience apparently
OK so he's either lying or he's just a lazy B@stardo.

100mm hole in a 200mm Joist is just mental - 50% of the joist - that needs removed and the joist repaired. Max hole on a 200mm joist is 50mm anywhere between 0.25 and 0.4 times of the span from its support - so between 700mm > ~1100mm from its support so location is ok. Is the joist going to collapse, maybe not but that's not the point, it isn't right and needs to be fixed ASAP.
then it seems they found that the push fit was too big
Nah, no excuse for a 20yr pro, how about checking OD's before the hole was cored and even then a bit of experience would have dictated what was needed. A SV socket bend has an OD a little over 120mm IIRC and a pushfit is a little over 130mm. A pro should easily be carrying a 142mm dry tube.
 
It's frustrating, you think you have gone for a reputable company, pay a fortune and get this :(
Add to the list tiling over blown mouldy dot and dab and other generally unsound plasterboard having had tiles hacked off, taking a spur into an RCD from a light circuit (maybe that one's ok) etc.

But I'm not a pro, so have to "trust them", what do you do!!

This is why I DIY when I can, sick of reworking garbage that I paid someone to do!
 
It's frustrating, you think you have gone for a reputable company, pay a fortune and get this :(
Of course but unfortunately they're not all they're cracked up to be
But I'm not a pro, so have to "trust them", what do you do!!
Don't pay them till it's completed to an acceptable standard. If they are even half way reputable then they should be approachable allowing you to raise your concerns and sort out anything you're not happy with or is unacceptable/substandard or downright dangerous. If they aren't then time to think about obtaining some advice I'm afraid because that really can't be left like that.
taking a spur into an RCD from a light circuit (maybe that one's ok) etc.
Really depends what it's powering, if it's another light circuit then it may be. Anything else then nope, as far as I know.
 
OK so he's either lying or he's just a lazy B@stardo.

100mm hole in a 200mm Joist is just mental - 50% of the joist - that needs removed and the joist repaired. Max hole on a 200mm joist is 50mm anywhere between 0.25 and 0.4 times of the span from its support - so between 700mm > ~1100mm from its support so location is ok. Is the joist going to collapse, maybe not but that's not the point, it isn't right and needs to be fixed ASAP.

Nah, no excuse for a 20yr pro, how about checking OD's before the hole was cored and even then a bit of experience would have dictated what was needed. A SV socket bend has an OD a little over 120mm IIRC and a pushfit is a little over 130mm. A pro should easily be carrying a 142mm dry tube.
Sorry, what's a dry tube?

How can the joist be repaired? Can that happen around the 40mm pipe?
 
Sorry, what's a dry tube?
Apologies, it's a trade term - A dry tube is a dry diamond tipped coring tube - it doesn't need water to cool or lubricate - you get wet and dry tubes

How can the joist be repaired? Can that happen around the 40mm pipe?
If it's to be done properly then no - A joiner would be best served to recommend how best it could be repaired -

As a plumber then the easiest way I could see would be to core a similar piece of joist wood exactly the same hole size and then glue and hammer the core in to fill, wait until it's all set then core a new hole at a max of 50mm but I'd check with a joiner first to see if that would be an acceptable approach.
 
Who's doing the electrical work, the 'Plumber' or A N Other? Given the poor quality of what's been done so far, I'd be checking their competency to do the electrical work. Also, check where they're ducting the extractor fan to.
 
An other, there was already an extractor there so I removed that ready (will use in a different room when need arises) and left the vent pipe which goes to a soffit grill (assuming the fitters who put the soffit in reconnected it). From what I can see, they have used 2.5mm cable, however there are 2 of them and they come up from a hole cut into a loft board so I have no idea where they come from or if there a size mismatch if they are indeed connected to the light circuit which I think is 1 maybe 1.5mm
 

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