bathroom downlights fire proof?

[wolfwiser]

Hi I wonder if someone help me answer a question regarding bathroom downlights...?

I understand the zoning, and requirements, but can someone help me select an appropriate downlighter.

As I can gather the 'fire resistant' type prevent fire from spreading (as quickly) by expanding and 'blocking' the hole created for them and hence delaying the spread of fire. I believe covers are required if using standard types??

What type (LED vs Low voltage vs 50W Halogen) would best suit general lighting of a bathroom (non zone 1)

Would I require fire protection covers in the loft above - and under what circumstances? (as I'd like to keep the loft insulated as much as possible)

Are clay plant pots legally accepted currently?

Many thanks in advance!

Cheers.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Because of the location of the lights you need be taking in to consideration in to the passage of moisture as well as spread of fire.
If the loft is not a lived in area the spread of fire is not as important as it would be, say if the lights were installed in a downstairs kitchen.
These could well be a suitable option.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FRSH11C.html

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I understand the zoning, and requirements,

Including the requirement to apply for Building Regulations approval before you start? Note that when you do, as well as describing how you'll comply with Part P you'll also have to address Parts C and L, as well as possibly B.

You're going to be making holes in the ceiling, and there's a cold loft above - not only do you need to stop draughts coming down through the holes you need to stop air from the room getting into the loft.

If warm moist air from the room below gets into the loft, you can get condensation leading to rotting of the roof timbers.

Really you should have a sealed enclosure over the lights which will keep the insulation away from them so they don't overheat, support insulation over the top so that you keep the insulation you need, and act as a barrier to draughts and condensation.

You can either buy a pre-formed cover like this:

- it's not a firehood .

Or build something yourself out of plasterboard, as per the details here: http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf

As I can gather the 'fire resistant' type prevent fire from spreading (as quickly) by expanding and 'blocking' the hole created for them and hence delaying the spread of fire. I believe covers are required if using standard types??

Only if the ceiling is a fire barrier.

What type (LED vs Low voltage vs 50W Halogen) would best suit general lighting of a bathroom (non zone 1)

Please read what "low voltage" actually means: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:voltage-bands

So - "general lighting". The downlighters you are considering won't provide that. Recessed lighting can be OK, but only in large sizes.

The little 2" diameter ones came out of the retail display market, where they were designed to throw small pools of light onto individual items. Ever noticed how a common term for them is spotlights?

They are actually specifically designed to not be any good for providing general room illumination.

I sometimes refer to them as torches, and if you look at the business end of a Maglite you'll see a marked similarity to an MR16 lamp. Fiddling with the lamp technology and voltage does nothing to address the problems of the format.

In places like kitchens, bathrooms, WCs, possibly hallways and landings where you just want unobtrusive efficient lighting that just gets on and does the job, something like this is ideal:



Or just start searching for bathroom lighting - MR16 downlights are not the only alternative to this:

Would I require fire protection covers in the loft above - and under what circumstances?

When the ceiling is a fire compartment barrier. How many layers of plasterboard is it?

(as I'd like to keep the loft insulated as much as possible)

You need to re-instate the insulation over the lights.

Are clay plant pots legally accepted currently?

No.

 

[wolfwiser]

Thanks so much for your input thus far.

I was aware of the requirement of having to contact building control, or (I believe) that you can use a sparky whom is able to self-certify?

I was looking into DIY vs employing someone for what seems a relatively straight forward task of adding downlighters. Do you have to inform build regs in advance, or are you able to be 'inspected' once the work is complete? Even though it is my own house, and I'm staying I shall be making every effort to comply with the (pesky!) building regs. I also shall be moving a bath and adding a shower cubicle which I believe will fall under requiring the same (though not researched this fully yet). It seems regs encourage you to be become more efficient which is perfectly understandable.

As well as the 'loftcap' I've also seen metal surrounds that do a similar job, but also read about people whom have had the pro's in whom have just cleared loft insulation from the area above around the downlighters fitting - I want to avoid this and keep insulation in tact (if maybe with a little hump!).

Thanks for the lighting suggestions too guys I was hoping to avoid larger recessed lighting in favour of several spotlight/downlights as the current set up (one large light in the centre with a shaving light above the mirror) doesn't offer anywhere near enough 'task' lighting, and takes an age to 'warm up'. Quite happy to have downlighters throughout with a couple anglked towards the mirror (or above the WC if you fancy a relaxing read!)

Again, thanks for the help!!

And sorry BAS I don't know how many layers of plasterboard I have (yet).

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

When notifying building controls the requirement is to inform them prior to starting the work.
A fee is payable and for small jobs, it hardly ever stacks up against getting a registered electrician in.
For example in my area for electrical work, the fee charged by building controls is £240.
That could be for altering the lighting circuit in a bathroom or for the full re-wire of a house including the installation of a new consumer unit.
It's the same fee!
If you had a registered (domestic scheme) electrician, they would be charge about £2.00 to notify, they do have a registration fee that is paid yearly of around £500. So they may quite understandably, add a little more on than the £2.00 to cover the cost.
With the moving of bath and shower it would be more likely that water regulations would need to be complied with, unless you are changing the structure of the bathroom, but an electrical shower will also be under part p.