Bathroom downlights have no earth?

[ban-all-sheds]

Only issue is I cant get into the void...

So how are you going to fit an enclosure over the lights, sealed to the plasterboard, which you need if you don't want your roof to rot from condensation?

http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf

 

[CaptainJack88]

I understand what you're saying, however

So how are you going to fit an enclosure over the lights, sealed to the plasterboard, which you need if you don't want your roof to rot from condensation?

http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf

The lights have a seal on the bezel for this. I have never seen that before, even in one of my friends new builds when we were in the loft.

Just your standard bathroom downlights

 

[omega015]

I have some Aurora LED down lights and they have the rubber/silicone seal on the bottom too. Actually makes a good tight seal with their decent springs, but my ceiling is the pvc cladding stuff. They come with 10year guarantee which is good as the LED isn't replaceable. So far never had any issues with a single one, the light output is good and the build quality is too. As you can tell I do recommend Aurora ones... at the moment at least.

 

[CaptainJack88]

I have some Aurora LED down lights and they have the rubber/silicone seal on the bottom too. Actually makes a good tight seal with their decent springs, but my ceiling is the pvc cladding stuff. They come with 10year guarantee which is good as the LED isn't replaceable. So far never had any issues with a single one, the light output is good and the build quality is too. As you can tell I do recommend Aurora ones... at the moment at least.

This is what I also have. Although come to think of it, I thought this was standard on all downlights. Even the cheap ones from B&Q that are IP22 have them

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The lights have a seal on the bezel for this.

Do they claim Part C compliance?

 

[penguin16]

If we do not correct posters (informatively) and then carry on with the thread using the correct terms then obviously we carry on with the thread using the wrong terms which, in the end, will mean some will then argue that because these terms have been used without correction for so long that they are now correct - which they never actually will be.

Without any earth on these things, the OP needs to be careful not to get seriously electrocuted!

 

[CaptainJack88]

Without any earth on these things, the OP needs to be careful not to get seriously electrocuted!

Which is why the bathroom is out of use and the lights are down until I can find the original T&E. A job for tomorrow morning I am not looking forward too

The old lamp that was in there was a standard GU10 lamp holder - not IP rated, no fire hood and no earth.. The glass on the bulb has actually cracked. Likely due to the heat from the old halogen and the steam...

My expectation here is that the original bathroom has 1 light.
The previous owners then cut the T&E off, detaching the original light, and then realised the T&E didn't reach the bathroom. So they installed a JB and ran 3 cables from the JB to each light, rather than just going to one light and feeding off the block connector in each

Note: I didn't fit these, they were fitted when they had the bathroom redone by previous owners - expecting this was a DIY job..

 

[EFLImpudence]

careful not to get seriously electrocuted!

Certainly no laughing matter.

 

[omega015]

If you are going to get the Aurora M pro's, looking at some of the spec sheets they are double insulated class 2 and state they do not require an earth and are IP65, air leakage, fire rated etc... So if there is zero possibility to run a new cable without destruction then fitting these should certainly be a safety improvement over what you have already. Failing that, what I mentioned before about a transformer on the flex and then a 12v light above the shower.

 

[CaptainJack88]

If you are going to get the Aurora M pro's, looking at some of the spec sheets they are double insulated class 2 and state they do not require an earth and are IP65, air leakage, fire rated etc... So if there is zero possibility to run a new cable without destruction then fitting these should certainly be a safety improvement over what you have already. Failing that, what I mentioned before about a transformer on the flex and then a 12v light above the shower.

Ah good spot, I completely missed that on the spec sheet. I have the M Pro for above the shower which is where there is only a 2 core flex.

Regardless of this though, it'd still like to see how they actually wired the lighting in the bathroom up as sticking a GU10 lamp holder above the shower cubicle without an earth doesn't really instil a lot of confidence...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

sticking a GU10 lamp holder above the shower cubicle without an earth doesn't really instil a lot of confidence...

Well - we still don't know if the lights are Class II or not....

 

[CaptainJack88]

Well - we still don't know if the lights are Class II or not....

There are no markings on it, but since this is quite literally a GU10 connector into a 2 core, I'd say they're not but I could well be wrong

I'll get a photo in a second.

This one isn't above the shower and its one I replaced with an LED a while back as the halogen failed. The one above the shower is identical but with an old halogen instead

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is it marked Class II or double insulated?

Does it have an earth terminal?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Don't all Class 2 lights have lamp sockets of one sort or another?

I think it's more a case of whether the conductors can come loose, wave around and contact metal parts.

 

[CaptainJack88]

Don't all Class 2 lights have lamp sockets of one sort or another?

I think it's more a case of whether the conductors can come loose, wave around and contact metal parts.

Correct, but then surely a block connector attached to piece of metal prevents it from being class 2. Since screws can come loose over time etc?

Anyway, I've routed around and managed find the following:

• All lights apart from the shower cubicle one (left) have Class 2 markings on them
• The left light comes out of a JB and there is a T&E going somewhere. Looks to be in the direction of the light switch
• The other 2 lights seem to go together at some point, but I cant figure out to what
  
• There is also a bathroom mirror with leds in it that is being powered by something. It runs independently of the lights though, but the cable goes towards the unknown red box
• There is a fan which comes on with the lights but I can't see how this is wired in.