Bathroom electrics

[Sgt Bilko]

Afternoon all.

We are in the process of getting quotes for work in the bathroom, and i would just like some advice to ensure i am not being spun a tale or running blind.

There are four things in the new bathroom design that are electricery related.

1. New downlights (aware of "zone" requirements). Is it a simple change to existing light supply feed to previous single fitting?

2. Removal of electric shower and make safe of the supply

3. Installation of under floor heating (electrical). The thermostat should be on the outside of the bathroom - is this true? Should there be any other RCD/breaker?

4. Whirlpool bath - what feed/breaker requirements should there be?

Also, do the bathroom installers have to be "certified" or supply a certificate of work.

A few of the current quoter's says they can do it to "standard" but are not certified as such?

 

[flameport]

The lighting circuit will need an RCD adding if there isn't one already. It should be a simple matter to extend the existing circuit provided it contains a CPC (earth wire). If not, the circuit will need to be replaced back to the fusebox/consumer unit.

Also consider that you can now have a wall mounted light switch inside the bathroom rather than a manky pull cord.
You may also want to read some of the other discussions on downlights before deciding on them.

Removing the shower circuit would consist of disconnecting the cable from the consumer unit, removing the circuit breaker and replacing it with a blank, and removing as much of the cable as is practical.

Underfloor heating will require an RCD and a suitable fuse/breaker. If the thermostat uses a sensor in the floor only then it could go outside the bathroom. However inside the bathroom would make a lot more sense, and if it contains a sensor for air temperature it would be essential to have it inside the room.

Whirlpool bath - RCD and suitably rated fuse or circuit breaker.

Some of these items could be connected to existing circuits, or they might need new ones.

All electrical work of this type is notifiable, the usual way is:
The person/company is listed here: www.competentperson.co.uk and will arrange notification through the scheme they are registered with.
You get electrical installation certificates from the persons doing the work.
You get a building regulations certificate from their scheme provider.

If not listed there, it will have to be notified to building control BEFORE any work is started, this will involve paying a fee, typically £100+. There will then be the issue of who does the testing and provides the certificate with test results. The work may need to be inspected at various stages. Some LABCs might want you to pay for this extra, others may not.

Realistically, if they are not registered you should be looking for someone who is.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

Afternoon all.

We are in the process of getting quotes for work in the bathroom, and i would just like some advice to ensure i am not being spun a tale or running blind.

There are four things in the new bathroom design that are electricery related.

1. New downlights (aware of "zone" requirements). Is it a simple change to existing light supply feed to previous single fitting?

Not quite sure what this question means, can you re-phrase?

2. Removal of electric shower and make safe of the supply

what about it? It is possible to remove a shower, but what is it you want to know?

3. Installation of under floor heating (electrical). The thermostat should be on the outside of the bathroom - is this true? Should there be any other RCD/breaker?

Thermostat, assuming you mean the UFH controller,I believe this is correct. Unless it is specifically designed to go insdie the bathroom.
RCD/breaker, most probably. It would at least prudent to put UFH on its own supply.

4. Whirlpool bath - what feed/breaker requirements should there be?

The whirlpool manufacturer are best positioned to answer this question.

Also, do the bathroom installers have to be "certified" or supply a certificate of work.

The electrical part of the work will definately need notifiying. How the installers choose to comply with this can be done a couple of different ways. You should ask them how they intend to comply with 'Part P' requirements. Post their answer here for further info.

A few of the current quoter's says they can do it to "standard" but are not certified as such?

Well, 1 million heart felt assurances from an installer is worth precisely NOTHING!
Certification is the only worthwhile proof, 'trust me' is not!

I'm sure there will be 1001 differing opinions on this, but if you have the work done without the appropriate certificates, then if you ever sell the house, you may find that you will have a problem.

 

[Sgt Bilko]

Thanks both.

mikhailfaradayski:

In relation to the lights, there is obviously a feed going to the current fitting. Can this be utilised to supply toe power for the 5 halogen downlights?

The shower: I think this has been explained (removed of RCD, take otu as mush wire as possible).

Ref the UFH, yes i did mean the controller. Hopefully they will be able to take a feed off something nearby (ring main?). I am getting a new CU installed next week so the RCD protection should be covered.

Ref the bath: Sorry, i didn't mean load rating, i meant does there have to be any isolation near the bath (outside the bathroom)?

Cheers

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

Hi Sarge,

Lights - should be easy enough to do, but watch out for the 'we hate downlight' brigade They have a point about efficiency (torch in a drain pipe/little pools of light etc.), but if cosmetics are the primary factor and its what you want, then there is no problem.

Shower - okeydokey

UFH - not knowing details of potential loading, i can only guess, but if the overall loading is greater than 2kW, then my preferred method would be to give it its own dedicated supply from the CU.

Bath - i'm not aware of any specific requirement for local isolation, but i dont see how it could be a bad thing.

There will be many sparks who can do this correctly and give the correct certification/notification. It may be that they are not the cheapest, but IMO should give a above board job and piece of mind to you.

 

[Sgt Bilko]

Thanks for that.

The UFH is the Warmup 300 pack (300w 1.3A?)

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

your welcome,

Not being familiar with the UFH you mention, can i ask, is that total load, or W/M sq?[/img]

 

[Sgt Bilko]

The pack covers (upto) 2.4 SqM. Website states 0.300kW

http://www.warmup.co.uk/uk-underfloor-pricelist.phtml

 

[Taylortwocities]

The UFH is the Warmup 300 pack (300w 1.3A?)

So you will need someone to provide a spur from an existing ring final circuit.
The circuit (or the fused spur) will need to include RCD protection at 30mA.
The controller goes OUTSIDE the bathroom. WarmUp say this in their instructions.
1.3A is about right so you'll need a 3A fuse in the fused spur.

 

[Sgt Bilko]

The UFH is the Warmup 300 pack (300w 1.3A?)

So you will need someone to provide a spur from an existing ring final circuit.
The circuit (or the fused spur) will need to include RCD protection at 30mA.
The controller goes OUTSIDE the bathroom. WarmUp say this in their instructions.
1.3A is about right so you'll need a 3A fuse in the fused spur.

Brilliant. Thanks for the advice.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Your electrician would already have known all that, and will be able to read the instructions for the UFH.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

The OP did state that he was getting quotes and a i suppose, given that he doesn't know this from that electrically speaking, i imagine he was just looking to confrim or deny something which was contained in those quotes.

IMO, prudently making sure he not having his pants pulled down.

 

[Sgt Bilko]

The OP did state that he was getting quotes and a i suppose, given that he doesn't know this from that electrically speaking, i imagine he was just looking to confrim or deny something which was contained in those quotes.

IMO, prudently making sure he not having his pants pulled down.

100% spot on.