Bathroom floor and wall tiles

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Hi All

Im currently stripping out my bathroom, its a modern house and has chipboard floors (about10-15mm thick) and dot and dab plaster walls. Where i have removed a leaky shower there is no plaster behined so i need to put up new plasterboard. Is the splashproof pink stuff ok to use or do i need something more substantial. The bit thats being replaced will be at the shower end of the new shower bath.

Also i would like to tile the floor, ive read somewhere that i need to replace the floor with OSB board ?? then coat it in sealer then i can tile. This seems a bit much, other people have said its ok to tile direct onto the chipboard, but just to use flexible adhesieve.

So id like anybodys advice before i start.

Many thanks

Mike
 
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Where i have removed a leaky shower there is no plaster behined so i need to put up new plasterboard. Is the splashproof pink stuff ok to use or do i need something more substantial. The bit thats being replaced will be at the shower end of the new shower bath.
No don’t use plasterboard even the Moisture Resistant variety in a wet area unless you tank it, it will end up in exactly the same state as the stuff you’ve just taken down. Use a quality waterproof tile backer board (Aquapanel) in all wet areas. MR PB can be used in dry areas.

Also i would like to tile the floor,
Suspended floors need special consideration, see below.

ive read somewhere that i need to replace the floor with OSB board ??
You do need to replace the floor but not with OSB; use WBP ply; you will need 18-25mm thick depending on your floor joist size/pitch/span.

then coat it in sealer then i can tile.
You need to acrylic seal the underside & edges of WBP but NOT the tile base; only prime where your chosen tile adhesive manufacturer recommends it.

This seems a bit much, other people have said its ok to tile direct onto the chipboard, but just to use flexible adhesieve.
You will need flexible adhesive on any suspended floor but if you tile straight onto chip it unlikely to last long. It’s the worst possible tile base you could imagine & that’s the worst possible piece of advice you could have been given; especially if your chip floor is only 10-15mm thick with I doubt very much.

Tiling isn’t rocket science but there are still many things that can catch you out & suspended timber floors need special consideration; walls can also catch you out with tile weights, prep & materials. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. By all means come back & ask further questions but do some research first.

It’s also important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.
 
Hi Richard

Thanks for the prompt reply. I knew that in the last house i had i used tile backer board, so am glad i didnt end up buying the pink waterproof plasterboard.

Ill get the WBP ply but can you just clarify for me, that i seal the edges and surface that the tile will be adhered to of sealed on the side that faces the joists. Im presuming you mean the side that the tiles are stuck to.

Cheers

Mike
 
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Acrylic prime the edges & underside of the ply not the tiled surface; this is to avid the possibility of moisture getting in through the back which can cause the ply to warp. Use only cement based powder adhesive & only prime the tile surface if the adhesive manufacturer recommends it; most don’t.
 

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