Bathroom project =) (with pics)

[FernandesDIY]

Hi all,

This week I've been busy with my bathroom project, I have never done anything this complex before so I am coming across my very first attempt to plumb, chase walls and also plastering =/,

Everything has been flowing smoothly without any major incidents.

1. I am fitting a recessed shower which my wife and myself loved, after chasing the walls I've ended up with something that looks challenging to plaster to someone so inexperienced like me, I would like to ask your advice in terms of plaster board over all the work and old wall. I am planning to skim over the plaster board and tile, the only problem is that I have got a small room of approx. 2cm depth for the studs\plasterboard\tiles as anything deeper than this will be too deep for the knobs of the shower. What option would you think is the best for this case?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9STZX2VahZ3V1ZYUXV5WmtyYVk/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9STZX2VahZ3N0Npc21uLXY2dmM/view?usp=sharing

2. After removing the old tiles I ended up with a not very nice looking wall, so I removed most of the old plaster (that I could manage) and re-plastered over the top with one coat plaster and multi finish plaster, although it doesn't look "bad" the end result is a bit "wave" and I fear that the new tiles won't set lay straight, is there anything you would recommend me to do so I can ovecome this problem?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9STZX2VahZ3WEMxR3NWR3ZjVVE/view?usp=sharing

3. Another wall that does not look great is the one where the previous cistern and basin was, when I removed them part of the plaster came off with it and I am now left with this ugly wall, for the best finish would it be better to plaster over brick or plaster board the patches?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9STZX2VahZ3SjBzSTE4MXFDVFU/view?usp=sharing


Thank you all =)

 

[ree]

I'd suggest that you stop what you are doing, and come back here with useable pics of the whole bathroom - only your first pic above opens up. A close up and name for the shower valve would also help.

Do you still have a working WC?

 

[FernandesDIY]

Hi Ree and thanks for your input.

I am not able to get better pictures because of the size of the bathroom I cannot position my camera far away enough to include "more of the bathroom". I will try to fix the other links.

The toilet is in place but I am not able to use the shower currently.

Thank You,

 

[FernandesDIY]

I'd suggest that you stop what you are doing, and come back here with useable pics of the whole bathroom - only your first pic above opens up. A close up and name for the shower valve would also help.

Do you still have a working WC?

Hi again Ree,

Are you now able to open the links?

I am sorry I'm new to the forum.

Thank You

 

[ree]

Stand at each wall and take a pic showing the opposite wall.

My earlier questions still stand?

 

[FernandesDIY]

Stand at each wall and take a pic showing the opposite wall.

My earlier questions still stand?

Hi and thanks again,

The second picture which I am hoping that is now live shows a close up of the shower valve, the model is Cubik Square Twin Valve from Victoria Plum.

I am already taking the pictures that way =/ It might be that the angle of the camera I am using is narrow as well which isn't helping.

Shower valve https://victoriaplum1.global.ssl.fastly.net/install_guides/d11a8f11-7490-4344-a33d-c64a7292662e.pdf

Thank You,

 

[ree]

The instructions require 1/2" supplies why have you reduced them - altho in a later pic you now appear to have a flexi connector?

Why have you set your s/valve without knowing the final depth of the finished surface? Your s/valve should project from the tile face approx. between 42mm & 52mm.

Its bad practice to have inaccessible compression fittings buried in plaster or behind tile - the connections to the s/valve are accessible.

Were the supplies flushed before you fitted the valve?

Various pipes can be seen, some drooping, above the T&G floor?

Pic 3. shows a very irregular inside corner - very difficult to tile to.

Using gypsum plaster in a shower is bad practice.

The WC soil pipe needs to be cut back flush with the wall.

Best practice for your bathroom would be to remove all the plaster to bare brick and render in sand and lime for the float coat(s).
Is the intention to tile all the walls?

FWIW: have you considered floor tile? A vanity cabinet? A ped basin? Extraction? Lighting/wiring? Painted ceiling? Window replacement?

 

[FernandesDIY]

Thank for the reply.

The flexi connector was to avoid chasing the walls all the way along the copper pipes to same depth as the shower valve. the initial plan was to chase and plaster over the chase but I am now considering using cement board, if this going to make the job easier? The connections to the shower valve will be accessible. The pipes above the floor will be "boxed in", and above them I am planning to install the basin and shower tray.

I am planning to tile the floor, the shower area and above the basin and waterproof paint the remaining area.

I am planning to cut the wc soil pipe, just wondering the best way to do it?

My biggest questions are: Best cement board for the wall where the recessed shower is and how to fix them to the bricks and how to solve that irregular wall by the door ready for tiling? =/

Lighting won't be touched.

Thanks

 

[ree]

Using cement board will require the board to be perfectly plumb and at 90 degrees at inside corners esp.
Use the cheapest board.

Remove all plaster to bare brick where the board is going.

Thin set tile adhesive is usually used to fix cement board. Full cover adhesive on floors, dabs on walls.

You cant plaster so get a plasterer in to do the walls outside of the shower area. Best perhaps that the plasterer fixes the cement boards.
Use a 9" angle grinder with a stone cutter blade or a metal cutter blade for CI pipe.

FWIW: if possible, use a shower tray with fins on two sides - set the final position of the shower tray before installing the shower drainage.

Tiling the floor will raise the fixtures, including the WC, in the room and might require the door to be cut.

A small shower room with tile needs an extractor.

 

[FernandesDIY]

Thanks Ree I will let you known how I get on.

Thank You.

PS: If I remove the old plaster the copper pipes will come out the chase and the cement boards will be laying on them, how do I over come this? chasing the brick for the shower valve was very difficult and would like to avoid this =/?

 

[ree]

For me, the term "chasing in" means cutting a channel into the brickwork. You use an angle grinder to cut two slots and chisel out the centre.
Or, as i originally suggested, use a S&L render instead of boards.