bathroom zone 1 lighting

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Im currently building a niche in my bathroom as in the images below.

I want to put 3 spot lights into the top of the niche shining down from the top. there is about 75mm of space but i think a maximum hole size of 65 - 70 mm would be about right.

The house was rewired a month or two ago and the supply was installed for a light up mirror.

Ive spoken to the electrician and due to a change of layout, he is happy this supply can be used instead for some spot lights as its wired to the light switch not permanent live. plus have you seen the price of the mirrors with lights? what a rip off.

I went out and bought some 12v deck type lights with the plan to fit the power supply in the loft and then run the water proof cables behind the aquapanel. However when they arrived, you couldnt see any of the light they gave out. hopeless brightness.

so I wondered what you may suggest instead, ive been looking at IP65 and IP67 down-lights,

this https://www.yesss.co.uk/light-fitti...ted-downlight-satin-nickel-clear-50688-p22490 is an example of something ive seen which states it can be used in zone1 if protected by a 30MA RCD which my sparky says it is. Would these be acceptable? or would you go for something IP67 here where there is likley to be water splashes and the possibility of the hand hose spraying them?

thanks

2015-12-20 17.32.50.jpg


2015-12-28 16.23.59.jpg


2015-12-28 19.11.03.jpg
 
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I would stick to using ELV lights. What about making the top of the recess out of opaque (white) acrylic and putting dimmable RGB LED strip(s) above it?

And before the tiling is done you might like to think about the advisability of inaccessible push-fit pipe joints.
 
Ive looked into the RGB strips and just plain white strips and it gets expensive quickly and i cant find an easy clean way to hide them that is water proof.

the fittings are compression fittings not push fit, ive not soldered before so copper wasnt really going to be any safer for me leaks wise.
 
I would stick to using ELV lights. What about making the top of the recess out of opaque (white) acrylic and putting dimmable RGB LED strip(s) above it?

And before the tiling is done you might like to think about the advisability of inaccessible push-fit pipe joints.
They look like standard compression fittings to me, just on plastic pipe - I could be wrong.

We did a bathroom recently, with a similar thing, was a recessed sink/mirror area. And we put an LED strip in, but inside one of these. Means if the strip ever does fail, you can replace it at a later date. Unless the home made equivalent is easy to remove, this might be more of a challenge.
 
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Come on, you need to pull your socks up. Your board fixing is atrocious. I mean, the screws don't even line up with each other.
 
Ive looked into the RGB strips and just plain white strips and it gets expensive quickly and i cant find an easy clean way to hide them that is water proof.
Use waterproof LED rope?


the fittings are compression fittings not push fit, ive not soldered before so copper wasnt really going to be any safer for me leaks wise.
I didn't look closely (enough) - saw the plastic pipe and assumed this sort of thing:

brass-push-fit-90-degree-elbow-bend-22mm-27122200-3018-p.jpg


Still think that learning to solder and bend would have been better.
 
I gave up trying to find a more appropriate thread with that photo in, as the site doesn't seem to provide any way to search on criteria like that. :mad:

So apologies for the non-electrical Q - I'm interested to know what you plan to do for the curved side panel, if it isn't "use the floppy bit of plastic supplied with the bath".
 
well so far it is "use the floppy side panel that came with the bath", i havent seen anyone do anything else worth it, at least not on a P shaped bath.

some of the L Shaped baths ive seen are tiled because they are square which is something that might be worth doing, and i possibly would have done if i had bought an L shape, but i couldn't find a reasonably priced, strong one in a 1600 size. so i went with a P. The tiles will be too wide to look nice on a curve and making a straight box would reduce the extra space at the thin end so im going to re enfoce the side panel with wood / glue / fiberglass assuming it looks fine when fitted
 
Word of advice - if you've got the loft space to store it, buy a spare side panel while they still make them. The floppiness isn't really a problem once it is on, but if you have any natural light in the room then after a few years the panel will no longer be white.

I've got a similar shaped bath (not the same - yours looks like it's cast iron) - I've been toying with the idea of building a curved side panel with mosaic tiles on it.
 
not a bad plan, but im not really planning on being here longer than a few years!. its actually acrylic but with a thicker coating on it which adds some rigidity to it and supposedly keeps the water warmer for longer (highly doubt it!)
 

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