Battening out bathroom wall

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I'm about to start a bathroom renovation, and was wondering what kind of wood to get for battening out a masonry wall. The plan is to make a 20mm gap to allow the shower pipework to fit behind the wall, and then attach hardiebacker boards to these battens for tiling over.

What kind of timber should I buy for this? I can't seem to find CLS framing timber as thin as 20mm, so will regular planed softwood be good enough for the job?
 
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Triz,
As a DIYer I tend to use this as it is
- treated wood,
- 25mm deep so can put in 25mm celotex/kingspan between wall and hardibacker,
- nice and wide at 35mm to screw in the two sheets of hardibacker.
- can choose length to best match height of ceiling.
www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Timber/Treated-Sawn-Timber/c/1000202?q=%3AtopSellers%3AThickness%3A25+mm&text=&25+mm=25+mm#

I screw to wall using framing screws (aka hammerfix screws), putting wood against wall, drilling straight through wood and into wall using a masonary drill bit (dodgy I know but works well), and then putting in framing screw with a hammer.
www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-6-x-80mm-50-pack/23251

If masonary wall is not flat, then wood has to be pushed forward (otherwise it will simply follow shape of wall and fitted plasterboard will not be flat for tiles). So before finally hammering in screws I check levels with spirit level and put "plastic Packers" between wall and wood to push wood out and make new wall level.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=frame+spacers

I then put 25mm of celotex/kingspan between wood which in my opinion makes room a lot warmer, reduces cold areas on wall and hence reduces mold on tiles.

SFK
 
Last edited:
Battening out? 2 x 1 treated slate lath drilled and plugged to wall, this works out at circa 22mm thick in reality. Use packers to plumb-up and check that your battens are straight side to side
 
If you are fitting a shower? (concealed) will need larger space, mine needed 100mm .
 
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If you are fitting a shower? (concealed) will need larger space, mine needed 100mm .
It's an exposed bar-mixer shower, so should only be the hot + cold pipes that need to go behind the wall. It will be tight, as I won't have much more than about 20mm to work with, but I think I can get away with it if I clip the pipes flush against the masonry wall.
 
Triz,
As a DIYer I tend to use this as it is
- treated wood,
- 25mm deep so can put in 25mm celotex/kingspan between wall and hardibacker,
- nice and wide at 35mm to screw in the two sheets of hardibacker.
- can choose length to best match height of ceiling.
www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Timber/Treated-Sawn-Timber/c/1000202?q=%3AtopSellers%3AThickness%3A25+mm&text=&25+mm=25+mm#

I screw to wall using framing screws (aka hammerfix screws), putting wood against wall, drilling straight through wood and into wall using a masonary drill bit (dodgy I know but works well), and then putting in framing screw with a hammer.
www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-6-x-80mm-50-pack/23251

If masonary wall is not flat, then wood has to be pushed forward (otherwise it will simply follow shape of wall and fitted plasterboard will not be flat for tiles). So before finally hammering in screws I check levels with spirit level and put "plastic Packers" between wall and wood to push wood out and make new wall level.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=frame+spacers

I then put 25mm of celotex/kingspan between wood which in my opinion makes room a lot warmer, reduces cold areas on wall and hence reduces mold on tiles.

SFK

Battening out? 2 x 1 treated slate lath drilled and plugged to wall, this works out at circa 22mm thick in reality. Use packers to plumb-up and check that your battens are straight side to side

Thanks for the links and advice! How many framing screws would you put in per meter of bettening?

Shower fixing often gets secured from behind via these, https://www.screwfix.com/p/p803wp-2...MI0vOMs7Of4QIVCrXtCh3UjgibEAQYAiABEgKq1fD_BwE
As its fixed thru the shower wall it has little strength .Which requires more space .

Those do look like they would provide a stronger fixing, but it seems 20mm will be a hard limit for me based on the dimensions of the room. This mounting kit seems like it should provide a good enough fixing to the wall https://www.screwfix.com/p/bristan-bar-valve-wall-mount-11-fixing-kit-chrome-plated/58495
 
Triz,
Q: How many framing screws would you put in per meter of bettening?

I put in about 4 or 5 over entire length (say 2.4m).
They are very strong and I only use 3 or 4 for fence posts into outside walls.

SFK
 

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