Baxi 105e (not instant) hot water fault

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Hi,

I had the Diaphragm issue 2 months ago, all working fine afterwards.

Today, no hot water, taps running cold water.

This time the boiler ignites unlike the Diaphragm fault. after igniting the boiler, temp lights go on one by one 30, 40, 50 and so on, but no hot water gets to the taps. Then it cuts out.

The heating is working fine, no problems with heating up radiators just lack of hot water.

Any idea's, I have used search but can't find this fault.

Cheers

Woody [/url]
 
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Possibly passing diverter valve.
Turn the heating off by selecting hot water summer mode only. Run the hw tap to see if ignites. If so, check to see if the heating flow pipe from the boiler gets hot. Obviously make sure the flow pipe is cold before you do the test. If it gets hot, this proves the diverter valve is passing the heat to the heating circuit.
 
Have you looked at page 39 of the manual, fault finding chart for hot water?

I have reached 3/4 of the process on the flow chart and it doesn't cover the fault.

Possibly passing diverter valve.
Turn the heating off by selecting hot water summer mode only. Run the hw tap to see if ignites. If so, check to see if the heating flow pipe from the boiler gets hot. Obviously make sure the flow pipe is cold before you do the test. If it gets hot, this proves the diverter valve is passing the heat to the heating circuit.

Thanks, turned hot tap on and its heating the rad's up but the water remains cold. What does this mean, new diverter valve?

There is an open/close switch at the back of the boiler, underneath towards the left that controls the heating flow pipe, should this be opened or closed?

Cheers
 
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Do you feel the problem lies with the diverter valve 45agm, I have turned on hot water in the past and the rad's have goten warm but also the water got warm. This problem is cold water out of the tap but hot rad's.

Is the Diverter valve a tougher job compared to the diaphragm replacement?

Thanks for the image, searched another thread of yours with this image and a diagram too :D
 
The diverter valve is a complete unit, renewing the valve will save you a packet. These are spring loaded and want to open, as the Hot Water diaphragm moves forward the diverter spring pushed the internals off their seatings, this section can jam. The valve rests in Central Heating position (Rads) this is why your radiators get hot and the water stays cool.

A reveres example I had yesterday was that the heating didn't come on but the boiler became hot & cycled on/off as well as the LEDs lighting up to maximum. The problem was a leak under the floor on the domestic hot water pipe causing the diaphragm to move slightly allowing the diverter valve to move into its Hot water only position. The only way to allow the radiators to become hot is to isolate he appliance from the cold mains.
 
Does this look like the issue. Pin appears to be stuck on the microswitch

2013-05-19093719_zps9ab81cae.jpg


Who sells the repair kits.

Looks a toughie to do.
 
That pin in your picture is activating the pump proving microswitch. There is a different microswitch nearby that a pin activates for domestic hot water.

As mentioned, the service kit should fix the fault which involves draining the boiler and replacing the inner parts of that manifold/diverter valve. Whether your DIY skills are capable, or whether to get someone competent in, only you will know.
 
Thanks brassedoff one thing i am not sure of in the manual is the instructions on removing the valve. Is there supposed to be 2 heating flow pipes one underneath the valve and one on the valves lefthand side. The manual shows theno pipe under the valve.

Sorry if its a silly question
 
Not really sure what you mean.
If you're going to do it yourself, don't touch the gas pipe, drain the boiler via drain point at right hand side. Isolate the cold mains going into the water and open a tap to remove water in pipes.

Good luck
 
Thanks brassedoff one thing i am not sure of in the manual is the instructions on removing the valve. Is there supposed to be 2 heating flow pipes one underneath the valve and one on the valves lefthand side. The manual shows theno pipe under the valve.

Sorry if its a silly question
I think the 2 flow pipes are, 1) pipe from main heat exchanger to diverter valve and 2) from diverter vave to rads.
 
From a commercial perspective, I usually replace the whole diverter valve if there is any evidence of the manifold section not following the hydraulic unit.

Tony
 

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