Baxi Combi 105e Instant - Microswitch - drip leak diaphragm

[Biketruck]

Would love some advice: I have the above boiler for about 8 years. Have renewed the PRV and it seems to have gone again - but with some clicking of the PRV is seems to have settled again re losing pressure - maybe some crap on the seal. But also, the Microswitch on the differential valve is all corroded and I need to give it a bit of a twist / tap now and then to get the heating on! The weird thing is, it appears that I'm twisting / tapping the DHW microswitch (the one on the right) as opposed to the CH microswitch (on the left) to get the burner to fire up and the CW light to come on. I'm going to change the two black microswitches this week. But I suspect the one on the right, the valve cover is leaking very slightly and dripping very slightly - and that is why the switch has been contaminated - so I may take the cover off and put a new diaphragm in.
My question is: Am I going about this the right way? Is my logic right. And is this boiler just too old now and am I chasing my tail?
I suppose while I'm only paying a few quid for PRV and Microswitch and diaphragms - its sensible to repair. Any advice appreciated.
Billy

 

[45yearsagasman]

Why do you keep referring to the microswitch as the right and then the left. As I recall they are both on the LHS on the diverter valve. The front one being the DHW switch and the one on the top is the pump proving switch.

 

[Biketruck]

Why do you keep referring to the microswitch as the right and then the left. As I recall they are both on the LHS on the diverter valve. The front one being the DHW switch and the one on the top is the pump proving switch.

Could be my mistake with semantics - but on mine, there is a black plastic micro on the valve to the left, and another one on the valve to the right - slightly higher up...

I've found that my PRV is still dripping outside too - so either I put another new one in or flush it out... or both?

I'll upload a picture...