Baxi solo boiler problems

[jonestom]

I have a baxi solo 2 40 pf boiler for hot water and CH,
The controller is a British gas Model UP1

Pump is not receiving power now and will not run, thus the boiler get's no water and cuts out. (I have proven the pump is ok)

Can anyone help by giving me a series of eletrical checks to determine the fault. I'm presuming the pump gets it's signal to run from the controller, it's possible I may have dislodged a wire somewhere, but need to find out what should have power and when.

 

[uselessFCUK]

So was the system working before you fiddled to possibly dislodge a wire?

You'll have a three-port valve (or 2 two-port valves) likely to be near your cylinder. Check that this valve opens when tank stat or CH stat is calling. Quite probably the motor is goosed so not making the micro-switch in the valve head.

Have you manually tried the valve?

Until the pump run the boiler will fail on overheat as no movement of wattter!

 

[jonestom]

I didn't want to go into detail as it can get that long winded, then it get's more confusing to those who try to help, that's why I asked for a method of doing electrical checks, to save having to explain.

1) just bought the house and not living in it yet. started Decorating, removed rads to paint(didn't drain system just shut rad valves.)

2) refitted rads, bled system, started system up ok. and left it to come on twice per 24hr period

3) Next morning went in, place very cold, so heating hadn't been on.

4) switched programme controller to CH on, Water ON,

5) Tweaked room stat to 25deg and boiler fired up.

6) after a couple of mins, loud hammering from boiler and it shut itself down.

7) determined that the pump wasn't running as there was no live feed getting to it, independently wired it to prove pump ok.

I now need to check the wiring out to see where the fault lies, but don't have a Y plan wiring diagram, and need guidance on how to carry out checks if someone can help.

Why I said I may have dislodged a wire somewhere, is I have been crawling around in the loft, running wires etc to new lights into different rooms.

I hope it's clarifed things enough to give me some much needed advice.

And thanks for the swift reply uselessFCUK

 

[gas4you]

Pump receives power from boiler pcb.

Check for 240V at switched live terminal then for 240V at pump live terminal on boiler.

 

[jonestom]

Thanks Dave I'll pop round later tonight and try that, will feed back to the forum how I get on.
Regards.

 

[bones001]

.

 

[Baxmax]

Pump receives power from boiler pcb.

Check for 240V at switched live terminal then for 240V at pump live terminal on boiler.

If ........

 

[gas4you]

Sorry Bax, don't get what you mean

 

[uselessFCUK]

(CH mode) So... check you have 230v to/from Programmer to/from Room Stat to Valve. When valve in CH position check switched live to Boiler then out to pump

I have a Baxi Solo 3 PF with two flexes (& supply T&E) between the boiler and wiring centre... presumably for Pump switched supply and Valve feedback. These are likely to be run through your joists which you may have dislodged/damaged as said.

You could bell out these flexes after isolating the power. Note where the wires either end are terminated. Twist the wires together at one end then confirm continuity from the other end by testing between each. Reterminate. Check all connections within wiring section.

Regards
Richie

 

[jonestom]

Richie ( much better than having to use your user name)

That is excellent, exactly what I was hoping to get from somone.

Thanks for putting the effort in to help, I really do appreciate it.

I'm sure I'll sort it with all the info given.

thanks to everyone for your support,

This is an excellent forum

I'll report back shortly.

Regards

Terry

 

[jonestom]

Thanks to all for your help, especially Richie who supplied me with the electrical diagram and other info.

It turned out that folllowing removal of tiles and replastering, there was loads of dust and debris that had entered the back of the programmer/controller and fouled up the contacts,

Armed the the drawing it was the first thing I went for to start checking the wiring, removed the front cover and there it was.

So a quick blow out and the system was up and running in no time.

Hooray, got some heating in the house again.
Thanks again everyone, this site probably saved me a fortune, I daren't think of the cost of a heating engineer coming in to sort it.

TC

 

[jonestom]

Hi all,

hope you can help, following my success at getting the heating on, I left the system on 'heating only' all night to dry out some plaster and tiles, went in this morning and heating was off, boiler running but not firing up.

The Boiler is on, the fan is on, but pilot light not on, I am not getting a spark at the electrode.

The boiler responds when I tweak the thermostat, and also when I switch the heating and hot water on and off via the programmer.

Each time the fan and boiler lights are 'on' but not the pilot light and there is no spark at the ignition point.

Is it time to call in a heating Engineer or can someone offer me advice on what I can try to get it going again, I hate to admit defeat and would love to sort it myself.

TC