baywindow fitting

[dav404]

Hello
I have a kitchen pvc baywindow and a pvc bathroom window
needing fitting. The baywindow is main window and 2 sides, cill and 2 front upright pillars.. The bathroom window has top opener and came with cill and 2 side panels. I bought supply only to save money but i feel i`m out of my league here and dont even know what screws to use on baywindow, also the baywindow needs a wood top and felting. What would be a good price for someone to fit both windows please.

thankyou
dave

 

[The-brickie]

Are you talking a bow bay conversion? I.e. you have a flat window and want a bay instead?

I would have thought one long day or two days work so approx £300-400.

 

[dav404]

Hi The-brickie
Thanks for reply, I`ve uploaded 2 pictures to explain it better. The window is measure to fit exact . My problem
was i did not know how to fit the cill correctly and also the square uprights that join the main window and side windows together, i`m guessing there self
tap screws because the uprights have a metal square core. When the guy delivered the window i had a shock when he told me i had to make my own wood top and felt it too. The other window is small bathroom window. I`ve had a quote of £200 for both windows fitted and they will buy the wood top , felt and everything else. what you think, is that good price ? Or is it worth trying to fit it myself.

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I would like to try installing it myself to save money, thats why i bought it supply only...but i dont want to knacker it up.

 

[dextrous]

I take it that you've paid the necessary fees to building control to check and sign off the installation as you don't sound like you're FENSA approved.

 

[^woody^]

You only need some normal screws - I use twin thread galv wood screws, the ones from screwfix. Something like nr 10's at 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"

Screw the frames to the corner post with 3 or 4 screws, and don't forget to add a bead of silicone first. You will need to pre-drill the post through the metal centre reinforcing post

Then fix the frame to the cill exactly the same - but run the silicone along the back lip of the cill and not at the front - to allow water to drain out

Make the board at the top out of some ply - use the cill as a template to ensure the frames remain square, but allow for an overhang of 50mm minimum.

I would not just use ply for the roof, but sandwich some insulation board - get some Celotex (a 1200 x 450 sheet will do), and use at least 25 mm, preferably 50mm. Sandwich this between two ply sheets with some no-nails or suchlike adhesive. Ply thickness minimum 12mm.

The frames screw up to the roof, and again don't forget silicone. IN fact just remember to use silicone everywhere on joints etc

If the roof is not too wide, consider using lead instead of felt.

You will find lots of guides on the web for fitting windows ( I think Wickes have some) and for forming the roof. Its not a difficult job.

Don't bother with building control or FENSA.

The £200 quote does seem reasonable though, and it will save you buying excess material which you wont need afterwards. But you will DIY for much less - £20-£40

 

[wolfman1]

everytime someone posts on this forum, someone appears to want to stuff the building regs down your throat, i think there is widespread avoidance of the windows thing, i hail this, it is a ridiculous infringement of our personal preferences. Rub the dates off and go ahead i say, stick your windows in, you know they are better than what is in there, and remember fensa doesn't neccessarily mean good quality, only that the window they fit they say meets a certain u value. And remember there are plenty of installers with the fensa logo that aren't actually fensa registered.

I know, it's breaking the rules, but then life would be dull if we abided by all of them, wouioldn't it?

 

[^woody^]

In real terms, an application to building control or use of a FENSA installer adds no value to this type of install and is effectively pointless.

It is very hard, possibly impossible to buy any new uPVC windows from a current manufacturer which do not comply with Part L1a.

So, if one is buying modern windows then they will conform by default. If the installation is done adequately (which by the OP's post it will be) then the install will conform to necessary standards, and all that will be missing is the bureaucracy.

Go for it

 

[dextrous]

I hate burocracy like anyone else. However, I can't see anything wrong with drawing an op's attention to the fact that some things are notifiable and require rubber stamping. Ignorance is not a defence. If the op decides to go ahead regardless, then that's his decision, but at least he will be making an informed one.

If you don't agree with this, then why, for example woody, do you contribute to any discussions involving planning permission and building control? Seems you are operating double standards.

 

[dav404]

Thanks so much woody
You explained that so well, I`m definately going to have a go.
I`m going to spend a bit of time on that roof part and get that right and
thanks for the insulation tip, great idea. I can see more clearly how to go
about it now thanks so much.
I will post a pic when hopefully its in
Thanks too wolfman

 

[^woody^]

why, for example woody, do you contribute to any discussions involving planning permission and building control? Seems you are operating double standards.

There are two types of regulations - ones which are revelent/necessary, and those which are not.

Replacement of a window does not require the same state interference and regulation as say, forming some supports to hold a house up

So no double standards, just pragmatism

BTW, I did not comment on someone stuffing building regs down anyones throat. It makes no difference to me

 

[^woody^]

roof part and get that right and
thanks for the insulation tip, great idea.

I forgot to add that a piece of timber (equal to the thickness of insulation) should be run around the edge of the insualtion to allow the two sheets of ply to be screwed together.

I recall posting more details about making a composite roof and cill in a similar post to do with bow/bay windows - but I think it was in the roofing section though

 

[dextrous]

Point well made and taken woody. I'm remain of the opinion that it is wiser to advise a DIYer of what may become potential pitfalls in the future should he or she ever decide to sell up, only to have the purchaser's solicitors request paperwork that they cannot provide and which may require retrospective standardisation (with it's tedious expenses and delays).

Like yourself, no doubt, I have seen installations done by DIYers which are far superior than some professionals, but sadly this amounts to a hill of beans when the beurocrats jump onto the bandwagon.

If you have any other installations that you feel should disregard BCO involvement and regs approval, and rely on pragmatism (which is at term that is somewhat open to interpretation), if you could make such a list available on a wiki, then I am sure that many DIYers, amongst others, would welcome this clarification