Bedroom above garage cold.

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Garage ceiling is plasterboarded, however im not sure what insulation is above it.

Whats my best course of action, attatch something to the existing plasterboard or rip all the plasterboard out and fit new insulating plasterboard?

Is there any other options as insulated plasterboard is a fortune.
 
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Without knowing what's there, its difficult to offer the best advice.

Could be that you already have enough insulation in the floor, and it's lacking elsewhere, or your radiator is undersized
 
In my case, I removed the floor in the room above, sealed all the gaps, cracks, joints, and service entries with pink fire foam, and packed mineral wool between the joists. This was because it was a poor-quality chipboard floor with multiple defects. If you are lucky enough to have floorboards, they are fairly easy to take up and replace.

It's possible to do this from below by removing the ceiling, but much slower and more arduous working overhead off steps. For a garage, I believe the ceiling has to be two layers of plasterboard plus skim, but that's a Building Regulations question.

Most of the heat loss through a floor is due to draughts. You can probably seal them reasonably well without taking up the whole floor. They come up round the edges of the room under the skirting, so concentrate on that. Mineral wool blocks draughts because it can be packed tightly into irregular gaps with no precision cutting necessary. Unlike foam slabs. The wool is also non flammable, cheaper, and muffles noise somewhat.

The expanding foam is quick to apply using a gun, if you can see the gaps and clean them first.
 
In my case, I removed the floor in the room above, sealed all the gaps, cracks, joints, and service entries with pink fire foam, and packed mineral wool between the joists. This was because it was a poor-quality chipboard floor with multiple defects. If you are lucky enough to have floorboards, they are fairly easy to take up and replace.

It's possible to do this from below by removing the ceiling, but much slower and more arduous working overhead off steps. For a garage, I believe the ceiling has to be two layers of plasterboard plus skim, but that's a Building Regulations question.

Most of the heat loss through a floor is due to draughts. You can probably seal them reasonably well without taking up the whole floor. They come up round the edges of the room under the skirting, so concentrate on that. Mineral wool blocks draughts because it can be packed tightly into irregular gaps with no precision cutting necessary. Unlike foam slabs. The wool is also non flammable, cheaper, and muffles noise somewhat.

The expanding foam is quick to apply using a gun, if you can see the gaps and clean them first.
Problem is its chipboard and carpetted, i would much rather work from the non decorated garage and rip the ceiling down.

Another issue is the garage has the bedroom above it but also part of a 1st storey roof, so i imagine the air is getting under the roof part and travelling straight into the bedroom?

I.e. the roof comes over the garage at the front half and the bedroom is sited over the back half of the garage.
 
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Drop the garage ceiling, seal any dodgy mortar work. Presumably one bedroom wall is shared with the roof space?- insulate that wall (battens and loftroll will be best, cheaper than PIR boards).
Then fill between joists with loft roll, reboard underneath.
 
Ultimately you need to work out what type and thickness of insulation you have where, and see if there are any areas where it's been overlooked or is inadequate.

If you rip out the existing plasterboard then you can insulate with wool between joists and replace the plasterboard.
No need for insulated plasterboard, unless you want to fix it to the existing. But then that will add weight, reduce the height of the garage ceiling, and you'll still lose heat around the edges.

Come back with more info.
 
Garage ceiling is plasterboarded, however im not sure what insulation is above it.
Cut hole in plasterboard and have a look.
Hole saw in a drill is likely best tool.

This holesaw set is cheap and very cheerful (ie i have this set and goes blunt after one or two cuts, but perfect for your requirement).

Keep the offcut and when finished looking put it back in with some no more nails.

SFK
 
Cut hole in plasterboard and have a look.
Hole saw in a drill is likely best tool.

This holesaw set is cheap and very cheerful (ie i have this set and goes blunt after one or two cuts, but perfect for your requirement).

Keep the offcut and when finished looking put it back in with some no more nails.

SFK
You just beat me to it. Check before smashing the place up, seems obvious to me. Put a screw into the centre hole before sticking the plugs back in, use the screw as a handle to ensure it aligns perfectly. Take out the screws and fill the holes the next day.

Another option is converting the garage into a room, which neatly solves the issue of it being currently basically outdoors.
 
Can you see the screws/nails in the plasterboards of the garage? I ask because if you can, zipping them out (or if they're nails, using a punch to drive them through the boards) with a cordless is faster and less mess than smashing them out and having to sweep them up. Plus you don't have to buy more plasterboard. To assist with putting them down and up you can get telescopic rods that will hold a board in place while it's fixings are removed or applied eg https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/props-supports/cat831318 or with a gun handle adjustment https://its.co.uk/pd/Vaunt-Telescopic-Drywall-Support-Twin-Pack_VNT20202.htm

insulated plasterboard is a fortune.
It varies but I've seen it be more or less the same price as a sheet of PIR plus a shared of plasterboard, plus the effort of glueing them together

You can certainly get PIR sheets separate to plasterboard sheets, and then use long screws to go through both PB and PIR into the batten; while PIR performs better in terms of thermal conductivity than wool it requires much more careful attention to detail regards draughts. If you end up with cold air blowing down the back of the board it'll be a worse overall result than having just used a lower performing wool in the first place. As such, if you have lots of uneven surfaces or holes that need filing you may be better off with wool.

John used the word "pack", which is something I strive to avoid when talking about wool insulation as wool's performance diminishes the tighter you ram a space with it.
Wool works mainly by trapping air so it can't move, but it does need to be fairly lightly filled and fluffy for that to be the case, rather than having been rammed into a space and compressed to a great degree. Aim to have your wool slightly squashed so it blocks a space and fills it up. Quite sure John installed their wool loosely , just didn't want that word to mislead to any assumptions of how it should be installed
 
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Another issue is the garage has the bedroom above it but also part of a 1st storey roof, so i imagine the air is getting under the roof part and travelling straight into the bedroom?

Packing with mineral wool will block that. The biggest ROI will come from packing round the edges, to prevent the cold air blowing in.

Packing the entire floor will be a lot more work.
 
Quite sure John installed their wool loosely , just didn't want that word to mislead to any assumptions of how it should be installed

For insulation, under most of the floor, yes, fluffy. But into gaps to block draughts, stuffed in to fill the gap. There is still a 170mm thickness, even in the stuffed parts.

I've got some pics, somewhere
 
Here we are


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Difficult to do from beneath. Much better to use Celotex type slab, cut to measure and sealed in with foam tape. Also better insulating than anything fluffy.
 
Difficult to do from beneath. Much better to use Celotex type slab, cut to measure and sealed in with foam tape. Also better insulating than anything fluffy.
Floors lose most heat by draughts. There is obviously no convection, negligible radiation from the floorboards, and very little conduction to the joists.

Mineral wool is much better at blocking draughts, and is easily stuffed into irregular gaps with no precision cutting or foam infill needed. It is so cheap that you can provide a thick layer at less cost than the equivalent value of slab.
 

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